H.M.S. Prince -The Final Modification/ Rex Stewart

It is not surprising to find builders frustrated when it comes to rigging. In my forty-plus years as a professional, this was (and is) one of the principle subjects many have been at odds with. Not just with themselves, but with other professionals and hobbyists.

Many will argue that 'sailing' ships are not attractive with sails because it 'hides' rigging. Yet one of the main factors for this system remains to be the 'sails'! And there is a method for bringing out the best in any model once the science is studied and worked upon. It doesn't happen overnight...And for those who claim they have expertise with this after building a few pieces; well that assessment is void.

Another argument/debate that comes to mind is the theory that ships were built without blueprints. That shipwrights calculated 'everything' in their head. That is sheer foolishness -and not to be embraced by anyone with commonsense. However, this is part of the maritime circles that continue this 'theory'.

Blueprints are the essence of the builder. Without them nothing is accomplished.

History, unfortunately has a universal way of hiding truth and I realize that the only viable way to discover (truth) is to divorce the politics and focus on the purity of research. Real answers are found when biases are quelled. One of the reasons I produce some of the most exciting models today is primarily due to sound doctrine and research from the sources I investigate. 

In this image, the rigging is not obscured by the sails...

Nor in this image.

Below, I show the dynamics of sail setting -where the variations bring realism to the subject. It's in this artificial form that my viewers (and collectors) find the perfect balance. However, this is predicated on research as to how ships appeared in wind under full and/or partial sail. 

With this focus in mind, I return back to rigging tables -exploring areas of rig that I found questionable relative to belay systems; especially at the quarter and mizzen decks. There seem to be much confusion in these two areas

There exist no drawings and/or paintings that clearly defines this. And of the contemporary work(s) I reviewed, I wasn't able to acquire correct fall lines that were compatible to the ship's design. That alone, pushed me to rewrite the script concerning their true location(s) from a logical stance. Of course I tossed 'debates' to the wind because those were distractions which was based on "cognitive dissonance". And of such I have, nor take no part.

In this image I am resizing the plastic lateen sail which I will later customize from treated paper. I am also locating the various rigging points on this sail to transfer to the custom sail so that the lines will fall accurately to the belays pins on deck. Much of my concern are on the brail system, as I have not found any satisfactory model showing this to be compatible to the Prince design. There had to be leeway and room for hauling up this large sail so not to conflict with the large topsail above it.

Percival Marshall's 1937 plan is the best reference that makes any sense to this perculiar design of the poop and quarter decks. From his perspective, it made sense that the forward brails would lead from the spar to the last shroud and down to the belay pin rail 'within' the ship -not on the actual top rail as seen on many contemporary models. Builders are not taking the time to assess scale to embrace this truth. Percival , being notably famous for his engineering proved this finding to be correct...and it is shown on my model, in kind.

This waterline view show the lateen sail set in a swift breeze with the forward brails leading through the blocks and connecting with the blocks on the last shroud. Notice that there are no pins on any of the rail area at the main mast to the stern area where the ensign is flying.

Port stern profile showing the brail leads to the main shroud. The lateen mizzen sheets also fall to the pin rail within the quarter deck bulwarks (away from the guns). Based on scale, it would be impossible for crew to reach and effectively secure these lines to pins on top of the bulwark. However, at the forecastle such was possible as I have shown in prior images.

Before rigging is complete, gallery windows are prioritized; especially since some lines will conflict with gold leaf in those areas where shrouds, sheets, lanyards and braces are located. Not to mention the backstays and halyard tackles.

Here the gallery windows are displayed in good order -placed and readdressed with gold leaf. 

As aforementioned, lines should not conflict with each other -leading through and around the tops down to their proper pins without fouling (as shown in this image). Also, based on the railing system (and scale)...notice the pinrails at the companionway before the stairs. The lines are clean and fall there without fouling. Furthermore the scale of the bulwark rails are too high for any crew member to actually secure a line. In Admiralty models much of this is ignored -or was never considered, being that the primary focus was on the structure of the ship. This is conclusive based on the many profile drawings stored in museum archives. None show total belay processes (of any kind) from that era.

Even when VASA was raised, there were no factual documentation(s) conclusive to her rigging...None. Every aspect of rigging was actually explored in the 19th century and pieced together by scholars who visited various museums/libraries to obtain 'limited' data. These facts can be validated by another contemporary builder in his quotation below:

This builder place emphasis on the PRINCE model at the Science Museum in England. From his perspective it is worthy; but from a rigger's point of view, one has to question the findings... And, I duly agree from a curatorial view, misguided information should not be passed on to any generation seeking truth. It's wrong.

Below are the final images of the PRINCE which conclude this build. There will always be PRINCE models which will differ in presentation. No one model can claim accuracy; that's a fallacy. However, each model has its place because of its reputation -and this piece is no different. I just brought it to another level based on my experience and research. So now, I provide you, the viewer, these finale images.

 

As a professional, I take my work seriously which is shown in each and every model I produce. I take no shortcuts, but rather place as much detail possible in these work(s). This model is no exception.

For those who appreciate and seek this type of art, I can be reached at Caseships@yahoo.com or by phone 1-774-757-7137.

Thanks for viewing! 

 

  

 

Airfix 1:180 Scale PRINCE...The Art Of Modification/Rex Stewart -Part Four

This is a more advanced image of the PRINCE current stage, but it has enough finished detail to now focus on the upper batteries and channel deadeyes.

I realize that this will probably be a seven to eight part blog. However, it's worth writing, especially when serious builders want to further their skills relative to historical detail(s) as opposed to the generic -or common practice.

I can't say it enough about 'admiralty models'..Again, they were not accurate in the sense of scale, but rather beautiful art pieces that were visual prototypes for building the actual ship. Builders get caught up in thinking that these prototypes were, in essence, the 'bible' to naval architecture. They weren't; and to believe that is a misnomer. I was fortunate to learn this (the hard way) years ago when a serious collector 'collectively' corrected me on certain details that I copied from a admiralty model. He waived the advances (out of respect for my work) and had me repeat the build with written data from writings of that period. That model became the cornerstone for all my models -including steamboats.

The images I'm about to place here will stem from actual documentation -and not speculation or theory. This is what makes a model unique and beautiful.

In my last blog I showed how I customized cannon to fit properly in the ports. Here, I show them from various deck angles which give a realistic feel of duplicating the actual ship...This is due, in part, because of proper scaling. Below are four images to support this:

A port broadside overview showing the complete gun batteries in both coil and recoil positions on both the main and quarter decks.

Portside stern overview showing another inboard/outboard perspective of the cannon and grates. On the original model the grating was too close to the mizzen mast and was relocated further ahead to the  quarter deck fore rail area. It was scaled wide enough to make room for the carriage tackles running in and out the cannon.

Starboard profile of main deck artillery...

 

Port overview showing the forecastle belfry, companionways and inboard/outboard cannon and tackles. Instead of keeping the full capstan, I removed the upper portion and replaced with a hole-drilled dowel and made wood capstan bars which are shown belayed on deck.

Port stern view showing partial full main and quarter deck cannons. This was the final deck installation before moving on to the channel details. On the admiralty model the belay pins were atop the rails. Unfortunately, because the Airfix version was off scale in this area, I had to compensate by placing the pinrails inside the bulwarks.

Over a hundred or so models I researched on Prince, I noticed details missing that encouraged me to place more emphasis on this. With the channels I noticed eyebolts missing which took the relieving tackles; but this was also evident in the tops. On the main channel the lower studding sail boom and cradle wasn't featured (on any of the models); nor knees attached to both channel and hull to strengthen it (channel) for taking on the heavy boom and relieving tackles. Below, I show this detail in a Willem van de Velde II study of the English ship  VICTORY which was built in 1620...She is shown as she appeared in 1666.

There is another possibility at play here; the fact that this was, and could be, a spar lashed alongside in the event that a topmast was lost at sea due to inclement weather or sea battle. There is another spar at the quarter deck tier which is lashed as well. However, in the Kennington lists of the 1650s, studding booms were mentioned for the main mast and must be presumed to fit on the main channel.

For a model builder, it's a judgement call. For me, I chose to feature this detail as an additive to European maritime practice as shown in the photo image below.

Another portside overview showing the studding boom and cradle on the left at the deadeyes and  channel...

Research is what you make it; it can be intense or it can be mediocre...but at the end of the day you own it. This is why I try to make the best of my materials and look further into documents to find whether things are 'political' or whether absolute. In my journey I've danced with both and I found this great peace of knowing truth -which is why these pieces are at the level that they are.

Now that I've clarified the studding booms, my next process of the build are the masts.

To join plastic to wood is a tricky endeavor. The right glue is needed and a ton of patience. Since I will be using the plastic tops, caps, and crosstrees; it's essential that I carve the wood masts a millimeter smaller than the actual (plastic) masts so that these can be fitted properly in the routed cavities where the plastic was. To keep the wood in those cavities I carefully drill holes in both plastic and wood pieces -gluing a metal pin in the wood and then sliding the open air part of the pin into the plastic. Being careful not to have glue touch the exposed areas since these have to be stained, varnished and painted.

Below, I shave away excess wood to form the mast...

Notice the partially finished mast above my carving hand; and notice the completed mast below. To actually view it, one would be convinced that it was totally wood.

The next step of the build is to study all the belay systems before stepping the masts. This is very important, because once the masts are secured, there's no possibility of having all the lines rigged. This can take several weeks...sometimes a few months; and serious builders/collectors know this.

Below are several views showing the masts, and how they will appear on the model before the rigging is started.

 

This concludes the fourth part of the HMS Prince build. I truly hope that what I've stated can be beneficial to those who currently own the Airfix kit. Understand that no kit is a hundred percent intact by way of fitting together parts. Every kit has its pitfall, no matter how detailed.

What will guarantee a nice model will be the patience in building it. There will be moments of anxiety and frustration; but that comes with the territory of discovering new information and/or techniques. Quality depends on how much time one is willing to put in a project...but, NEVER get consumed. That will only drain your focus. The 'first' PRINCE drained my focus, as the model was attractive; but, common mistakes were made. However, I corrected those flaws and am satisfied with this current work. 

That being said, I close this portion to make way for the next.

Fairwinds!

H.M.S. PRINCE -The Airfix Modification...Part Three/ Rex Stewart

 This third series addresses deck layout, rigging and belay points. There is much to say on this subject, but from this above image, I need to say very little. In short, the information is out there...and can be very beneficial -provided time is taken to find it.

Many Prince models I've seen were rushed to ruin because the builder took on the persona of 'oh well' after realizing errors. This is why I'm adamant about careful study and what I research. If quality is the objective, then persistence and patience must be practiced at 'your' pace. It's 'your' model and 'your' perception on how 'you' want it to be. Whether mediocre or fine, the decision is 'yours'...and you must be happy with it.

During the 1980s and '90s many builders were in competition with one another to grab that 'spotlight' -especially in the arena of sailing ships. As a result, there was mass confusion about ships, their design, rigging methods, etc., etc. Even galleries climbed aboard to promote their 'superstars' until I arrived.

To that end, I faced opposition from all sides, but weathered those storms of vanity to be persistent in my chosen livelihood -with extended support from real experts whom provided me the jewels of their findings. I discovered a page of history unfolding because many were women.

This third series will not be about technique(s), rather about the process as to how I came about my findings -starting with the first images below:

As a rule of thumb I build my models by correctly scaling them; and making changes to kits that don't accurately have the pieces in sync with the build. This is done by drawing a figure to match the model's scale and the supporting items. Most of the time I find that I must discard these items and replace them with custom pieces to match what's on the template. By doing this early, the rigging process becomes less taxing.

The three principle areas of focus I consider for a build such as this are doors, stairwells, and railings. If these elements conform to scale, then everything else will fit accordingly. This closeup view show the doors, stairwell and railing system which I modified to give the appearance of a real ship. There's yet much to do...

Another closeup showing the quarter and poop deck stairs and bulkheads. The plastic windows were removed and replaced with acetate. The doors were tedious by way of removing; these were adjusted in open position with shaved basswood. I find that doors fully and partially open tend to be more attractive -bringing the viewer to it.

Port overview showing the progress of the main and quarter decks. In the Airfix kit limited grating was featured, so I improvised and made the grates for every deck except the poop -or roundhouse deck. I noticed this to be true for other kits on this subject; but the reality was that ships needed these grates to have ventilation -especially when engaging the enemy. The smoke needed a place to escape and the gratings were created for that purpose. Unfortunately, many modelers miss this...or choose not to place them effectively. 

This overview show the complete deck and grating system for PRINCE. 

Another flaw are admiralty type models which are used for a project's absolute...They are not 'absolutes' -they are study models.There must be an understanding what is meant by an admiralty model from this period. Like any ship model of this era, these were prototypes created to present the Admiralty a three dimensional schematic of what the ship might look like. It was not the conclusion, as features were added and/or dismissed during the actual build. Furthermore, rigging was at the discretion of the captain and/or ranking officer, so even in that area nothing was yet conclusive until the vessel went to its sea trials. This is where I encourage modelers to seriously study the basic rigging practices of the period and incorporate it before presenting the word 'museum quality'.

This is not a play on words; serious modelmakers know this.

Below is one of my notable woodsculpted dioramas that I created in the 1990s depicting "The Admiralty c.1660". Here, the Admiralty members are viewing a vessel prototype before it's voted upon for construction. Since that time I only produced two of these which were immediately bought -and since I'm working on PRINCE, I will probably produce my third and last diorama to honor the Airfix Trilogy.

The next views of the build highlight the detail to the forecastle. I studied many PRINCE models to make a fair assessment of the ship. Applying what I studied and researched, this is my conclusion. I noticed that there were no bitts shown at the foremast base. It's obvious that these were there based on paintings and drawings showing rigging leading down to that area. Furthermore, the conclusion of the matter lies with Vasa that was raised in 1961 and the restoration of both USS Constitution and England's HMS VICTORY. 

Bitts lightened the stress of the massive yards and sails -which occasionally had tackles to assist. However, the bitts and knightheads (part of the bitts system) had to be reinforced by way of the deck and not the rail. Again, the admiralty model did not serve its purpose here because I strongly believe it was only emphasizing possibilities. But based on the evidence of Constitution, Vasa, and Victory this feature was essential.

Airfix Prince model looking forward showing enhanced detailing of the forecastle. The belfry was solid which was customized to include the brass bell. Both cabin doors are open so it can afford the viewer  observance of the open ports and cannon. On the forecastle deck behind the belfry are the bitts and galley stack.

Another angle from starboard...

And finally, a starboard profile...

This concludes the decking process on a much heralded kit from Airfix. What makes this kit worthy of build are the many variations one can do with it. Even if I were to build another, it would look entirely different from this; albeit probably one without sails.

The guns and boats are now the next step before addressing the masts. Below, are images of how miniature (and detailed) this will be. One gun alone with full tackle take about two to three hours; but, well worth the investment for achieving a quality model.

It's been a pleasure featuring this build up to this stage -and I hope the next blog will go further in depth regarding the tackle systems, rigging and other details that may have been overlooked in previous Prince models.

Thanks for viewing!

H.M.S. Prince c.1670 -The Art Of Modification...Part Two

 As I sit here writing I can't help but to think how interesting my childhood was. I was adventurous and explorative. Always wanting to learn -whether from the classroom, the diverse community, or television. But the foundation of it all were my parents; primarily, my mother. In her was this immense wisdom that I later found in most women -and that ultimately put me over the top as a man, artist-craftsman, and father.

As such, I embraced history with an open mind -pushing away biases that was the pitfall to limited thinking. Instead, I absorbed every aspect of my profession down to the smallest details and embraced many, many cultures that helped it along...because in those cultures were missing pieces that made up what is viewed above -beauty.

In my early post on this subject I wrote about technique and staying in one's own lane. This principle I will continue to hammer home so that it will become evident (and fact) that we ALL have a purpose through the things we live and experience.

In the above image is the next stage is applied relative to taking plastic and simulating it to appear as wood. Yet, there are wood components in certain areas of the build.Al 

In this photo, natural wood components are seen -such as the interior deck props. These were fit in various locations to take on the wood cannons I made for the open gun ports. But prior to this I had to evaluate certain details and relocate them to their proper areas such as the deck furniture and bulkheads. The kit, though finely made, had issues which was unavoidable such as warping and mast displacement. Other factors included the bulkhead details such as adding to the carved pieces, removing windows and doors; and, substituting actual wood decks to take the eyebolts.  

The deadeye channels were no exception, they were completely replaced and knees which I hadn't  seen in any models. Knees were essential for strengthening the channels and lightening the stress when taking on the shrouds. At the fore channel such strengthening was mandatory when carrying the large stowed anchors.

Another missing element that I considered were the skids and/or fenders that were located amidship which ran down the side of the hull to the last wale at the waterline. These were very much part of the naval design -not just for British ships but for most seafaring nations. These skids and/or fenders prevented the boats from damaging the hull when being hoisted from and lowered into the water.

A closeup image showing the much notable skids/fenders. Also, notice the trunnels and planking about the topsides. This was done with a special pencil -one of the primary tools I use for both my models and dioramas. Every artistan have their arsenal of special tools needed to fit their line of work; and no two artists are alike because each use their tool(s) that are comfortable for his or her purpose. This is what makes work(s) 'original' and not a 'hard copy'. I encourage every novice artist/builder to explore materials and use them faithfully...because at the end of the day, the result will be yours. That advice you can take to the bank.

Research is beneficial at any level. The more study placed in a thing, expect better results!

I have invested countless hours in what I do and seldom keep logs. This current project is no exception. 

Usually I take my time (days or weeks) to scrutinize certain parts of the build before moving on to other areas. I will study other areas in preparation, but will refrain from touching anything until that particular space is finished -leaving no options to rework. This approach eliminate frustrations in the long run.

With the outside of the hull finished, I move on to the galleries. The windows would usually take a back seat until the lanterns are addressed...and yet, there are times when I would ignore the windows and move on to the interior work -such as the deck and cannons. The below images show the finished galleries.

The paints applied to this (and all my creations) are not straight from the jar; they are custom-mixed. Even the gold are applied in several variations -and gold leafed in certain areas for highlight. This process can take several weeks through experimentation.

To add better detail to gunports I work the lid ropes as shown in the following three images...

Next are the cannons which had to be scaled properly. The kit provided pieces that did not fit the overall appearance of the model. So, by trial and error, I made them from wood and secured them to wood platforms. This was followed by installing decks to cover the cannons and working up a template to make bulkheads and supporting deck furniture align correctly. Another set of photos support this below.

Viewing the image, the carriages and cannons are mounted below decks and the main deck is prefit to duplicate in wood. Also the plastic cannon/carriage are assessed to evaluate whether or not scaling is needed. The following photo show the conversion from plastic to wood on the quarter deck...

On this deck I relocated the grating as it is too close to the mizzen mast/slot. I noticed on various Prince models, this grating was omitted. It was inevitable to have these for dispersing smoke during cannon discharge.-especially since there were ten cannons within that enclosure.

In this image the main deck was also revised. It was here where I realized the scale of the guns were off relative to them clearing the bulwarks when being run in. Also the grating had to be slightly widened to support the boats without compromising the cannon. There was no room to place the grating that was supposedly behind the mainmast. In the plan drawn by noted British engineer Percival Marshall, no grating is shown.

Here is the scaled template I drafted to use throughout the build. The small markings on the side is the spacing of the shroud's ratlines in proportion to the crew members. There are more ratlines here than on conventional models

Another overview showing two separate templates for the build within the main deck waist. The lower template show the revised cannons in both run out and recoil position which has enough room to clear the bulwarks and gratings.

This conclude Part Two of the modification. There is much more to study before I move forward on this. However, from this assignment, I have come to learn more. I realize 'today' that Airfix models are a professional type model that is intend for those who are patient in the build for a museum type model of quality. There are many possibilities with this kit...and the plastic is of good quality to make changes that suit the builder.

Pieces are very small and to replicate them in another medium does require some skill. The drawback is missing pieces that can place a build 'on hold'...But for the experienced novice/professional, such parts can be customized.one can alter to be museum quality.

There is another factor that is overlooked with Airfix models; that is the scale. The company was precise in it, but the issue came up in debate on forums because builders couldn't match the scales based on the information given by the company. With a little investigative work I found that certain areas of each kit were either over-scaled or under-scaled. To alleviate that problem I picked two areas on the model that balanced in scale and reworked the entire model.

The two areas I studied were the steps, doors, and gun ports. I then made a crew figure template with additional deck furniture (to that scale) -giving me the precise measurements for all the fittings throughout the model. This procedure upgraded the Airfix kits to be a perfect 'one of a kind'.

There's not much more I can write on this blog segment except that we're in the midway process of the build. I appreciate your viewing this and will conclude the hull factor in 'Part Three' before moving on to the rigging. 

Fairwinds!