H.M.S. PRINCE -The Airfix Modification...Part Three/ Rex Stewart

 This third series addresses deck layout, rigging and belay points. There is much to say on this subject, but from this above image, I need to say very little. In short, the information is out there...and can be very beneficial -provided time is taken to find it.

Many Prince models I've seen were rushed to ruin because the builder took on the persona of 'oh well' after realizing errors. This is why I'm adamant about careful study and what I research. If quality is the objective, then persistence and patience must be practiced at 'your' pace. It's 'your' model and 'your' perception on how 'you' want it to be. Whether mediocre or fine, the decision is 'yours'...and you must be happy with it.

During the 1980s and '90s many builders were in competition with one another to grab that 'spotlight' -especially in the arena of sailing ships. As a result, there was mass confusion about ships, their design, rigging methods, etc., etc. Even galleries climbed aboard to promote their 'superstars' until I arrived.

To that end, I faced opposition from all sides, but weathered those storms of vanity to be persistent in my chosen livelihood -with extended support from real experts whom provided me the jewels of their findings. I discovered a page of history unfolding because many were women.

This third series will not be about technique(s), rather about the process as to how I came about my findings -starting with the first images below:

As a rule of thumb I build my models by correctly scaling them; and making changes to kits that don't accurately have the pieces in sync with the build. This is done by drawing a figure to match the model's scale and the supporting items. Most of the time I find that I must discard these items and replace them with custom pieces to match what's on the template. By doing this early, the rigging process becomes less taxing.

The three principle areas of focus I consider for a build such as this are doors, stairwells, and railings. If these elements conform to scale, then everything else will fit accordingly. This closeup view show the doors, stairwell and railing system which I modified to give the appearance of a real ship. There's yet much to do...

Another closeup showing the quarter and poop deck stairs and bulkheads. The plastic windows were removed and replaced with acetate. The doors were tedious by way of removing; these were adjusted in open position with shaved basswood. I find that doors fully and partially open tend to be more attractive -bringing the viewer to it.

Port overview showing the progress of the main and quarter decks. In the Airfix kit limited grating was featured, so I improvised and made the grates for every deck except the poop -or roundhouse deck. I noticed this to be true for other kits on this subject; but the reality was that ships needed these grates to have ventilation -especially when engaging the enemy. The smoke needed a place to escape and the gratings were created for that purpose. Unfortunately, many modelers miss this...or choose not to place them effectively. 

This overview show the complete deck and grating system for PRINCE. 

Another flaw are admiralty type models which are used for a project's absolute...They are not 'absolutes' -they are study models.There must be an understanding what is meant by an admiralty model from this period. Like any ship model of this era, these were prototypes created to present the Admiralty a three dimensional schematic of what the ship might look like. It was not the conclusion, as features were added and/or dismissed during the actual build. Furthermore, rigging was at the discretion of the captain and/or ranking officer, so even in that area nothing was yet conclusive until the vessel went to its sea trials. This is where I encourage modelers to seriously study the basic rigging practices of the period and incorporate it before presenting the word 'museum quality'.

This is not a play on words; serious modelmakers know this.

Below is one of my notable woodsculpted dioramas that I created in the 1990s depicting "The Admiralty c.1660". Here, the Admiralty members are viewing a vessel prototype before it's voted upon for construction. Since that time I only produced two of these which were immediately bought -and since I'm working on PRINCE, I will probably produce my third and last diorama to honor the Airfix Trilogy.

The next views of the build highlight the detail to the forecastle. I studied many PRINCE models to make a fair assessment of the ship. Applying what I studied and researched, this is my conclusion. I noticed that there were no bitts shown at the foremast base. It's obvious that these were there based on paintings and drawings showing rigging leading down to that area. Furthermore, the conclusion of the matter lies with Vasa that was raised in 1961 and the restoration of both USS Constitution and England's HMS VICTORY. 

Bitts lightened the stress of the massive yards and sails -which occasionally had tackles to assist. However, the bitts and knightheads (part of the bitts system) had to be reinforced by way of the deck and not the rail. Again, the admiralty model did not serve its purpose here because I strongly believe it was only emphasizing possibilities. But based on the evidence of Constitution, Vasa, and Victory this feature was essential.

Airfix Prince model looking forward showing enhanced detailing of the forecastle. The belfry was solid which was customized to include the brass bell. Both cabin doors are open so it can afford the viewer  observance of the open ports and cannon. On the forecastle deck behind the belfry are the bitts and galley stack.

Another angle from starboard...

And finally, a starboard profile...

This concludes the decking process on a much heralded kit from Airfix. What makes this kit worthy of build are the many variations one can do with it. Even if I were to build another, it would look entirely different from this; albeit probably one without sails.

The guns and boats are now the next step before addressing the masts. Below, are images of how miniature (and detailed) this will be. One gun alone with full tackle take about two to three hours; but, well worth the investment for achieving a quality model.

It's been a pleasure featuring this build up to this stage -and I hope the next blog will go further in depth regarding the tackle systems, rigging and other details that may have been overlooked in previous Prince models.

Thanks for viewing!

Sailing Ship VASA c.1628 -Modified/ Rex Stewart...Part Three

In this third of a five part series, my focus is on the rear deck and bulkhead detail(s) - followed by the stepping of the masts.

 Because the kit was warped (and there were testimonies from other builders), it was necessary to clamp the hull halves during the early stages of construction so that I could assess how much space was needed to fit decks and bulkheads without causing too much stress on the plastic.

In the above photo the helmsman bulkhead is shown in plastic which will be partially customized
in wood. Much of the decorations will be copied from the Landstrom book. The delicate part of this build will be to shave paper-thin wood doors and have them appear open.

A view of the stern deck bulkhead cabins on the actual ship at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden. One flaw that I own up to is my placing the main knighthead portside. In the photo it is clear that it was located starboard. There is no argument here; I concede.

Concerning detail, I transferred what was visible in this photo to my VASA miniature.

This overview of the VASA show the correct deck layout of the ship's furniture (in scale) which include the pinrails and knightheads. The gratings had to be reduced and scaled properly to fit the guns -giving enough room to show the gun carriage run in system when in action.

The wood decking is the highlight which add overall realism...especially with the accent of the coiled ropes which will show freefall from the sails and masts.

Now that decks are finished, I carefully inspect the decoration, gunport and lanyard channels for paint spotting -making sure everything is completely covered. All details must be finished before moving on to the anchors. Usually the build take two days to complete due to the model's miniature scale...but well worth the effort (based on past projects and/or commissions).

The below photo images show the fashion of anchors during the early 17th century on Dutch ships of the period. Since VASA was designed by a Dutch builder, the practice applies to the vessel. I studied contemporary models both here in the States and Europe and was slightly disappointed with my findings which prompted me to return back to Bjorn Landstrom's book for the finer details.

From his book, coupled with my personal research of the Dutch and English Masters (artists), I found his work to be very credible and applied the rigging system accordingly. On either side of the model, the rigging system of these anchors differ. Portside show them stowed and starboard has them fished.

Stowed anchors...portside.

Fished anchors...starboard


Now with anchors completed, the next step of the build are the miniature cannons and boats, followed by the stern lantern and flagstaff.

Armament can be complexed when customizing small scratch-built cannons. Much planning and thought must be weighed -especially when scale is involved. Kits are not designed to be perfect. In fact, kits only present a basic generic of detail -and much of it is not guaranteed to be scaled properly. It's a matter of choice as to the level of detail pursued, but it will cost many hours of research and patience. There are no shortcuts. In the supporting images I begin working on the cannons  -building  them (to scale) accordingly to the ship's deck furniture.

Below are images that reflect the level of  'miniature' I desire to achieve.

As viewed, these cannon miniatures are no longer than two-thirds the width of an American dime (as shown above). The materials used are bass and birchwoods, paper, copper wire and vintage carpet thread for the recoils.

 In this image the cannons are installed. To compliment them, I secure  the shot trays between the guns. In them I simulated cannon balls which can be seen with a magnifier...Below a closeup view of the shot tray.

On many VASA models I noticed the capstan not properly clearing the stowed boats. But what really caught my attention was the absence of the belfry. All ships, especially naval, carried this forward at the bow area of the forecastle.Without this (the belfry) ships would not be functional, especially in battle.

My draft and build of VASA's belfry -using birch for the bell and basswood for the overall structure. A fine sable brush was used to achieve the hairline gold-edged corners and scroll work on the roof facade.

After carefully investigating VASA's forecastle layout, I concluded that the belfry was located between the barrister rail and foremast which void all fouling of cannon tackles and sail rigging as shown in the supporting images.

Stern detail of VASA's deck furniture and cannon. No kit involvement here; all details were scratchbuilt in wood. The next and final approach to finishing the hull will be the inboard boats and ship lantern.

In this three-stage process I use Mr. Landstrom's book to scale (in miniature) the VASA's stern lantern.  Measuring both top and base features, I move the template down to the transom for scaling. From there, I am able to make a template (red half-circle) to assist in the building of an accurate miniature for the model.

The three supporting images show the finished lantern...At least 46 pieces combined in wood, paper, acetate, and metal make up its design. Not only can one see through the simulated glass; but looking closely,  wings can be seen framing the windows from the sculpted uprights.

Fast forwarding, I now address the ship's boat -the longboat that was discovered next to VASA when she was raised in 1961. From Mr. Landstrom's writings it was defined as a sloop that carried leeboards port and starboard. On many models (small or large), I have not seen this item featured; so after many hours of study, I decided to add them to further authenticate the miniature.

The supporting images show the start and finish of the build:

The VASA longboat (sloop) shown as it appear at the museum.

Above, these three images show the build's progress, the rigging of the leeboards, and the final installation of the sloop. Overall, it took approximately three days to build...using pine, bass and birch woods.

Now that this segment has been achieved I will move on to the masts and rigging in the hopes that it will encourage many of you to take on the Airfix Classic Series kit of Wasa c. 1628.

I never snubbed my nose at the fact that the kit was plastic. I studied details and researched products to modify it into being a museum piece. Taking nothing away from it's properties, rather adding to it to prove how exquisite a regular kit such as this can become...with patience.

I appreciate the follow and hope to read your accounts relative to this.

Fair winds!

VASA -The Swedish Warship In Modification/ Rex Stewart...Part One

                       Airfix Classic shipmodel kit of VASA showing finished bow modification.

It is a beautiful thing when people can appreciate your work to the extent of purchase -and then call or write about their satisfaction years later...followed by the continued support of their siblings. Such patronage is priceless which only encourage better and greater work.

For me, it was never about money; it was about art and engineering -with the skill to produce fine art in everything I touched...Money was (and is) the reward for honesty in what I did, and for what I continue to do. Nothing more; nothing less.

In this genre of ship models, I am a humble man. I painstakingly study a vessel. And for the most part draft or re-draft plans based on my findings. From these discoveries, I incorporate them in my models -whether scratchbuilt or kits. The majority of my pieces are scratchbuilt. However, I occasionally (by commission) modify kits to give the the same quality as my scratchbuilt pieces -and upon sight, one cannot tell the difference; which doesn't condemn what I do, but place it at another level..

Collectors enjoy my work and purchase (at times) in multiples...only because they need to view them to compare the quality; hence, a collection is born. And it doesn't make a difference whether it's wood or plastic. It's all about the skill and ability behind the work(s) that bring the human eye to it.

We now begin 'our' beautiful journey to the thing people can see and appreciate...

I began purchasing Airfix kits in the early 1980s. There was something about this product that drew me to them (the ships). Of course they were plastic -as I had not yet became prolific with wood models. However, that gradually manifested when discovering the history of the Hudson River steamboat. In this image VASA was one of the first kits I bought to indulge my curiosity of its contents -after reading Bjorn Landstrom's book "The Royal Warship VASA".

Both book and kit was purchased from the sale of my colored pencil drawing of the WINSTON CHURCHILL shown in the photo image below.

My early pencil of the training ship WINSTON CHURCHILL...the drawing which purchased my first Airfix kit, VASA.

Every beginner or journeyman that starts a kit often becomes intimidated by its contents and usually shelf it without giving thought that the motivation to build is real. The pitfall is the many pieces viewed upon; the 'win' is the confidence in studying the pieces and establish a plan as to what will be addressed 'first'. No one builds the same. Everyone has a standard they follow; and if that standard produces an untarnishable satisfaction to move on to the next project (after completing the first), then that beginner and/or journeyman has now established the hobby and/or career.

When I look at the hull-halves and stern, I already know what need to be addressed. Kits have flaws -period, and one shouldn't be discouraged by them. Building should be the focus with the expectancy of error. I realized the VASA' hull needed work and appreciated the fact I could add my own signature to it. This is what makes a project exciting, the fact that it's your signature and not a copied style.

Artist - historian Bjorn Landstrom became my motivation for individuality as an artist-craftsman; and ultimately, a historian. I was drawn to his books during my youth because his references were paramount from that which I studied in the Albany school system. It was his first book "The Ship" that captured my imagination of the maritime. And as the years passed, I inquired and acquired his publications to learn more indepth how these vessels were constructed.

His last book "The Royal Warship VASA" was the book that changed my perspective on ship design and modelmaking. I studied the details (and rigging) which helped me to correct his applications   -based on another author from England named Percival Marshall...He, too, was advanced; but Bjorn was key to my detailed work which centered around his findings from the actual ship.

With my experience as a fine artist/craftsman, I knew my calling in the American maritime was eminent, though it would be met with opposition. However, I dealt with it successfully and continued on because of Bjorn's writings.

As I assessed the VASA kit, these two supporting images show the early stages of the build.

I begin by marking the hull below the waterline -down to the keel at the points where pins will be inserted. These pins are temporary until the cradle is made to support the actual pins that will permanently secure the model to both cradle and display base.

The second image show the hulls clamped to align it (and its markings) to the custom foamcore.       
This foamcore base will be the workbench for finishing the model from the deck -upwards; making it easier to address the sails and rigging without physically touching those properties.

Notice the exposed ribs on the roundhouse deck above the stern galleries. This wasn't on the actual ship when raised, so that feature will be carved away during modification.

Here in this starboard profile, the hull is modified from bow to stern. Many features were altered and/or changed to conform to the actual build. Other features were added that was commonplace for 17th century ships.

Before and after photos showing the enhanced galleries and gunports. The gunport lids on the model were raised and weren't flush with the hull, so I cut away the ports and followed through with the plastic lids because of the lion carvings. The wood lids replaced the plastic ones -so to lend more realism to the model.

Quality and detail have always been paramount to my builds. The interior is no exception.

Here, I place wood decking only in areas that will support the cannon(s). Instead of gluing the plastic guns into the prefabricated sockets from the kit,the ports are drilled (and cut away) to house the cannons...This affords the opportunity to have guns at various positions to make for a lifelike model.

These are the exquisite details collectors watch for.

So that wood bonds to wood, I show the custom made cannons which would better serve the build as a permanent fixture. Plastic has the tendency to dry out over time as I have witnessed when restoring plastic kits for clients. The cement was brittle (due to various climatic changes)...and for the most part I discovered those models were placed in direct sunlight or high heated areas.

It's best to get good quality resin glue for wood and replace plastic items (when possible). Many models have stood the test of time because of this procedure. Resin can last for years without decaying or drying out.

Every artist has his/her style when painting a fine piece. There are really no standards to follow except for personal intuition. While some techniques work for some, it doesn't work for others. I learned this early-on during my youth. Art teachers, and then art professors, would attempt to persuade my values to the point of 'crossing swords'...I vehemently encourage any who have a unique way of achieving the same end with better results, to stay the course even if compromise will fail you.

That being said (or written), I find that kits should be examined carefully before purchasing any paints to address it. Brushes should also be a factor in the application. Every artist/craftsman has a certain preference for bringing out the best quality in their work. If this wasn't true we would not have variety!

Here, I paint the fine detail of the galleries while the hull is still in progress... I paint as I assemble; not pre-paint. The reason for this is because correction has to be made -and parts can occasionally be warped. These problems will always exist, and it's better to mentally prepare for these snags and not assume perfection at first glance.

The finished backend and starboard side stern galleries...

With the backend and starboard galleries finished, I now work on the portside of the hull. My focus is on the gunports and the arrangement of those which were open on that day. Since it was wind that sank her, and reports were given of water being taken in on the lower gun deck, I tend to lean on the fact that buoyancy was the issue, not wind....From documents (which much disappeared), it was duly noted that VASA did have her full armament that day. And since it was a trial sailing, it is safe to place emphasis on the guns being secured at the ship's center for buoyancy; but not enough buoyance to keep her afloat since there wasn't enough on her keelson... But that can be disputed when viewing the English ships.

Now that both halves have been painted, I proceed with converting the plastic deck to wood - rearranging the entire layout to conform with the settings. Even the ship's sloop will be re-designed to emulate the actual sloop at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm.

Basswood and/or cherry are the choice woods for these models, as they lend to the elegance of their appearance.

The next stage of the build will focus on the beakhead and hull in Part Two.

Kits should not be played down as being something of a hobby or pastime. These can be professionally modified to become museum pieces and collectibles, or both. It's really the level of quality that determines the build. As a professional I have endlessly proven this for years. So now there is no excuse to belittle kits (as I have witnessed in several forums). Flaws are everywhere and can appear when least expected; but, with a openmind and keen eyes, flaws can become 'flawless'...with patience.

For those who enjoy this type work and have kits to be modified -or wish to have one built from scratch, kindly contact me: Caseships@yahoo.com. For more information about me and what I do, please visit https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart/ and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

I now leave you, the viewer, with those thoughts and look forward to the next blog on this subject of VASA c.1628.