Airfix 1:180 Scale PRINCE...The Art Of Modification/Rex Stewart -Part Four

This is a more advanced image of the PRINCE current stage, but it has enough finished detail to now focus on the upper batteries and channel deadeyes.

I realize that this will probably be a seven to eight part blog. However, it's worth writing, especially when serious builders want to further their skills relative to historical detail(s) as opposed to the generic -or common practice.

I can't say it enough about 'admiralty models'..Again, they were not accurate in the sense of scale, but rather beautiful art pieces that were visual prototypes for building the actual ship. Builders get caught up in thinking that these prototypes were, in essence, the 'bible' to naval architecture. They weren't; and to believe that is a misnomer. I was fortunate to learn this (the hard way) years ago when a serious collector 'collectively' corrected me on certain details that I copied from a admiralty model. He waived the advances (out of respect for my work) and had me repeat the build with written data from writings of that period. That model became the cornerstone for all my models -including steamboats.

The images I'm about to place here will stem from actual documentation -and not speculation or theory. This is what makes a model unique and beautiful.

In my last blog I showed how I customized cannon to fit properly in the ports. Here, I show them from various deck angles which give a realistic feel of duplicating the actual ship...This is due, in part, because of proper scaling. Below are four images to support this:

A port broadside overview showing the complete gun batteries in both coil and recoil positions on both the main and quarter decks.

Portside stern overview showing another inboard/outboard perspective of the cannon and grates. On the original model the grating was too close to the mizzen mast and was relocated further ahead to the  quarter deck fore rail area. It was scaled wide enough to make room for the carriage tackles running in and out the cannon.

Starboard profile of main deck artillery...

 

Port overview showing the forecastle belfry, companionways and inboard/outboard cannon and tackles. Instead of keeping the full capstan, I removed the upper portion and replaced with a hole-drilled dowel and made wood capstan bars which are shown belayed on deck.

Port stern view showing partial full main and quarter deck cannons. This was the final deck installation before moving on to the channel details. On the admiralty model the belay pins were atop the rails. Unfortunately, because the Airfix version was off scale in this area, I had to compensate by placing the pinrails inside the bulwarks.

Over a hundred or so models I researched on Prince, I noticed details missing that encouraged me to place more emphasis on this. With the channels I noticed eyebolts missing which took the relieving tackles; but this was also evident in the tops. On the main channel the lower studding sail boom and cradle wasn't featured (on any of the models); nor knees attached to both channel and hull to strengthen it (channel) for taking on the heavy boom and relieving tackles. Below, I show this detail in a Willem van de Velde II study of the English ship  VICTORY which was built in 1620...She is shown as she appeared in 1666.

There is another possibility at play here; the fact that this was, and could be, a spar lashed alongside in the event that a topmast was lost at sea due to inclement weather or sea battle. There is another spar at the quarter deck tier which is lashed as well. However, in the Kennington lists of the 1650s, studding booms were mentioned for the main mast and must be presumed to fit on the main channel.

For a model builder, it's a judgement call. For me, I chose to feature this detail as an additive to European maritime practice as shown in the photo image below.

Another portside overview showing the studding boom and cradle on the left at the deadeyes and  channel...

Research is what you make it; it can be intense or it can be mediocre...but at the end of the day you own it. This is why I try to make the best of my materials and look further into documents to find whether things are 'political' or whether absolute. In my journey I've danced with both and I found this great peace of knowing truth -which is why these pieces are at the level that they are.

Now that I've clarified the studding booms, my next process of the build are the masts.

To join plastic to wood is a tricky endeavor. The right glue is needed and a ton of patience. Since I will be using the plastic tops, caps, and crosstrees; it's essential that I carve the wood masts a millimeter smaller than the actual (plastic) masts so that these can be fitted properly in the routed cavities where the plastic was. To keep the wood in those cavities I carefully drill holes in both plastic and wood pieces -gluing a metal pin in the wood and then sliding the open air part of the pin into the plastic. Being careful not to have glue touch the exposed areas since these have to be stained, varnished and painted.

Below, I shave away excess wood to form the mast...

Notice the partially finished mast above my carving hand; and notice the completed mast below. To actually view it, one would be convinced that it was totally wood.

The next step of the build is to study all the belay systems before stepping the masts. This is very important, because once the masts are secured, there's no possibility of having all the lines rigged. This can take several weeks...sometimes a few months; and serious builders/collectors know this.

Below are several views showing the masts, and how they will appear on the model before the rigging is started.

 

This concludes the fourth part of the HMS Prince build. I truly hope that what I've stated can be beneficial to those who currently own the Airfix kit. Understand that no kit is a hundred percent intact by way of fitting together parts. Every kit has its pitfall, no matter how detailed.

What will guarantee a nice model will be the patience in building it. There will be moments of anxiety and frustration; but that comes with the territory of discovering new information and/or techniques. Quality depends on how much time one is willing to put in a project...but, NEVER get consumed. That will only drain your focus. The 'first' PRINCE drained my focus, as the model was attractive; but, common mistakes were made. However, I corrected those flaws and am satisfied with this current work. 

That being said, I close this portion to make way for the next.

Fairwinds!

H.M.S. Prince c.1670 -The Art Of Modification...Part Two

 As I sit here writing I can't help but to think how interesting my childhood was. I was adventurous and explorative. Always wanting to learn -whether from the classroom, the diverse community, or television. But the foundation of it all were my parents; primarily, my mother. In her was this immense wisdom that I later found in most women -and that ultimately put me over the top as a man, artist-craftsman, and father.

As such, I embraced history with an open mind -pushing away biases that was the pitfall to limited thinking. Instead, I absorbed every aspect of my profession down to the smallest details and embraced many, many cultures that helped it along...because in those cultures were missing pieces that made up what is viewed above -beauty.

In my early post on this subject I wrote about technique and staying in one's own lane. This principle I will continue to hammer home so that it will become evident (and fact) that we ALL have a purpose through the things we live and experience.

In the above image is the next stage is applied relative to taking plastic and simulating it to appear as wood. Yet, there are wood components in certain areas of the build.Al 

In this photo, natural wood components are seen -such as the interior deck props. These were fit in various locations to take on the wood cannons I made for the open gun ports. But prior to this I had to evaluate certain details and relocate them to their proper areas such as the deck furniture and bulkheads. The kit, though finely made, had issues which was unavoidable such as warping and mast displacement. Other factors included the bulkhead details such as adding to the carved pieces, removing windows and doors; and, substituting actual wood decks to take the eyebolts.  

The deadeye channels were no exception, they were completely replaced and knees which I hadn't  seen in any models. Knees were essential for strengthening the channels and lightening the stress when taking on the shrouds. At the fore channel such strengthening was mandatory when carrying the large stowed anchors.

Another missing element that I considered were the skids and/or fenders that were located amidship which ran down the side of the hull to the last wale at the waterline. These were very much part of the naval design -not just for British ships but for most seafaring nations. These skids and/or fenders prevented the boats from damaging the hull when being hoisted from and lowered into the water.

A closeup image showing the much notable skids/fenders. Also, notice the trunnels and planking about the topsides. This was done with a special pencil -one of the primary tools I use for both my models and dioramas. Every artistan have their arsenal of special tools needed to fit their line of work; and no two artists are alike because each use their tool(s) that are comfortable for his or her purpose. This is what makes work(s) 'original' and not a 'hard copy'. I encourage every novice artist/builder to explore materials and use them faithfully...because at the end of the day, the result will be yours. That advice you can take to the bank.

Research is beneficial at any level. The more study placed in a thing, expect better results!

I have invested countless hours in what I do and seldom keep logs. This current project is no exception. 

Usually I take my time (days or weeks) to scrutinize certain parts of the build before moving on to other areas. I will study other areas in preparation, but will refrain from touching anything until that particular space is finished -leaving no options to rework. This approach eliminate frustrations in the long run.

With the outside of the hull finished, I move on to the galleries. The windows would usually take a back seat until the lanterns are addressed...and yet, there are times when I would ignore the windows and move on to the interior work -such as the deck and cannons. The below images show the finished galleries.

The paints applied to this (and all my creations) are not straight from the jar; they are custom-mixed. Even the gold are applied in several variations -and gold leafed in certain areas for highlight. This process can take several weeks through experimentation.

To add better detail to gunports I work the lid ropes as shown in the following three images...

Next are the cannons which had to be scaled properly. The kit provided pieces that did not fit the overall appearance of the model. So, by trial and error, I made them from wood and secured them to wood platforms. This was followed by installing decks to cover the cannons and working up a template to make bulkheads and supporting deck furniture align correctly. Another set of photos support this below.

Viewing the image, the carriages and cannons are mounted below decks and the main deck is prefit to duplicate in wood. Also the plastic cannon/carriage are assessed to evaluate whether or not scaling is needed. The following photo show the conversion from plastic to wood on the quarter deck...

On this deck I relocated the grating as it is too close to the mizzen mast/slot. I noticed on various Prince models, this grating was omitted. It was inevitable to have these for dispersing smoke during cannon discharge.-especially since there were ten cannons within that enclosure.

In this image the main deck was also revised. It was here where I realized the scale of the guns were off relative to them clearing the bulwarks when being run in. Also the grating had to be slightly widened to support the boats without compromising the cannon. There was no room to place the grating that was supposedly behind the mainmast. In the plan drawn by noted British engineer Percival Marshall, no grating is shown.

Here is the scaled template I drafted to use throughout the build. The small markings on the side is the spacing of the shroud's ratlines in proportion to the crew members. There are more ratlines here than on conventional models

Another overview showing two separate templates for the build within the main deck waist. The lower template show the revised cannons in both run out and recoil position which has enough room to clear the bulwarks and gratings.

This conclude Part Two of the modification. There is much more to study before I move forward on this. However, from this assignment, I have come to learn more. I realize 'today' that Airfix models are a professional type model that is intend for those who are patient in the build for a museum type model of quality. There are many possibilities with this kit...and the plastic is of good quality to make changes that suit the builder.

Pieces are very small and to replicate them in another medium does require some skill. The drawback is missing pieces that can place a build 'on hold'...But for the experienced novice/professional, such parts can be customized.one can alter to be museum quality.

There is another factor that is overlooked with Airfix models; that is the scale. The company was precise in it, but the issue came up in debate on forums because builders couldn't match the scales based on the information given by the company. With a little investigative work I found that certain areas of each kit were either over-scaled or under-scaled. To alleviate that problem I picked two areas on the model that balanced in scale and reworked the entire model.

The two areas I studied were the steps, doors, and gun ports. I then made a crew figure template with additional deck furniture (to that scale) -giving me the precise measurements for all the fittings throughout the model. This procedure upgraded the Airfix kits to be a perfect 'one of a kind'.

There's not much more I can write on this blog segment except that we're in the midway process of the build. I appreciate your viewing this and will conclude the hull factor in 'Part Three' before moving on to the rigging. 

Fairwinds!   

Sovereign Of The Seas - The Art Of Modification...Part Two/ Rex Stewart

The Sovereign of the Seas overview image showing the deck interior with the supporting profile image of  J. Payne's well-known engraving showing her reconstruction.

In the first part of this build, I made mention of how I discarded much of the plastic parts and modified the kit with the replacement of wooden parts. In other words, going a step above to enhance and give visual clarity to overlooked details. In many models that I studied many details were questionable and not scaled properly -such as the doors, capstan to the height of the doors, and the ladder systems of steps from one deck to the other.

Then there was the accessibility to these decks. Were ladders used and covered with gratings? And for cooking purposes; where was the stack attachment to the stove? On the British  HMS Victory and the American USF Constitution the stack is forward. To secure this detail I redesigned the forecastle
and place it 'there' -forward as shown in the above image.

Since there were no real existing plans on SOVEREIGN (other than the 19th century plan housed at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich), everything was speculative...being based on various artists' renditions of the period. It is from those renditions that I weighed my research values.

These next images focus on the hull details before moving on to mast and sail systems.

This image show the revised half, quarter, and roundhouse decks. I kept the styrene bulkheads and modified them with ornate carvings. All the doors were cut away and replaced with open wooden  ones. The windows were all cut away and replaced with templar. There were no stern stairs leading to the roundhouse deck; just simplified ladders, so I went to classic drawings to give me the correct staircase for that period.

               The finished, modified hull from the Airfix Special Edition Royal Sovereign 1637.

Completed stern galleries...Note the addition of the shield-carrying unicorn and lion. Tedious work, but made of wood all the same. Additional carvings were added to the gallery. All windows were  removed and replaced with templar. The stern lantern was also customized with templar and small dabs of resin to simulate pearl carvings on the roof, etc. This detail took approximately two weeks to accomplish.

After completing the stern galleries, pinrails, bits and blocks were made to assist the rigging. For the world of me I could not understand why many builders did not have them featured in their correct areas on the models. Some argued that pinrails did not exist during the period of the Spanish Armada War, but evidence showed differently -even in ships 20 years before the conflict. Afterall, those many lines had to be attached somewhere...and they were not hitched on timberheads as some historians claim. These men were merely following 'tradition' of the letter.

For years I studied models, paintings, drawings (and plans) -attempting to make sense of the confusion to this particular vessel. Of all the contemporary, detailed models out there; many were rigged properly...including some of the period of SOVEREIGN. But for some reason, focus was on her ornaments and basic rig complimented her sailing features...She was designed in such fashion that she outlived two British kings; making her, in deed, the Sovereign of the Seas!

I refused to settle with galleries at that time with the "take it as it come" attitude concerning my method of research. Hence, I departed from the lot and ventured on my own and took delight being independent to find discoveries concerning European ships. Here, in this image, is one of the rigging plans I created in 1981 and modified in 2018 concerning the layout on the forecastle deck... I worked this process for all deck areas of the ship.

Once the rigging plans were created I then proceeded with the masts and yards -scaling them down to  proper length and width as described in the ship's list of the period. The Airfix kit had them shorter...Notice the 1:168  scale crew figure in the background drawing. I used both it and the capstan for the entire build. Airfix had the spritsail yard further back, whereas I compensated by placing a visible black marking on the styrene as a reference for correct positioning of that yard... but only after careful study of several plans and models.

The next step was to address the fore, main and mizzen masts...My concern was the height of them and how they would factor into the overall rigging. The lines had to run easily through the blocks and belay at the rails/pins without fouling. Below, the two images show new wooden masts and rigging blocks being made in place of the plastic. The kit had no blocks at all, yet it was advanced enough to have them.

                               Here, I begin carving and shaping the dowels for the masts...

                               Masts and miniature blocks in progress...

Customized tops were made...using the existing ones from the kit. Modification to the rails were necessary for holding and securing the shrouds and futtock shrouds The rails were also essential for hitching lines that led from mast stays and yards.                                                                                 

In this image the masts are temporarily stepped so that lines can be adjusted before actually securing. This takes exceptional engineering and planning -especially getting those lines down through the gratings to their assigned pins. Once this is accomplished I then remove the masts and pour glue into the holes -replacing back the masts to permanently seal. The hole cavities were created earlier while arranging the deck layout.

With these features in place I now move toward to addressing the flags...followed by yards and sails.

The power of flags...

From every country, to every region and/or territory, flags are the qualifier for identity. If created in a way that attracts the viewer, it can open opportunities in ways unimaginable. For years these have been my signature on vessels -whether sail or steam. Many of my collectors have always complimented this feature and easily identified my work(s) by them. Some collectors commissioned or bought multiple pieces because they enjoyed viewing how I set my sails and enhanced model to be equally compatible to the flags.

For any builder, this is priceless advice.

The British flags that are shown in the images are hand-painted, made from aged bond paper and treated to prevent from becoming brittle over the years. Some models that I created 40 years ago still look 'new' today. In this powerful modification of  SOVEREIGN , the viewer will get to see how the flags will balance the masts, rigging and sails to make it a collector's choice.

In this image, as if viewing from the water (or dock), we see how the flag and masts have a poetic balance as would be found on a real ship of that period.                                                                         

Rigging is one of the most complex and painstaking endeavors to modelmaking. There is no one standard to this approach. It has its pitfalls and challenges. It is up to the builder as to the level desired in the process, re: simple, mediocre or advanced. No one should judge; and yet, I see this quite often in forums that I've reviewed -or at one time been associated with.

There has been many versions of rig for Sovereign of the Seas, both academic and creative. Some rigging methods could be argued, but in the scheme of things findings can only be based on exhaustive research and comprehensive reasoning -nothing more.

The above drawing illustrates my point. It is a contemporary drawing based on artist renditions of time's past. Some lines are accurate and others are inaccurate. The bowsprit rigging is accurate relative to the topmast and spritsail lines  leading to the beakhead. And those lines extending from the foresail systems of the 1637 period also display accuracy for their leads to the beakhead. However, it's up to the builder to establish those belay points to where the lines actually fell. I have not as yet seen it in contemporary pieces, to date.

A brief preview showing the lines belayed in SOVEREIGN's beakhead...

Once the masts are up rigging and all the elements to it are addressed, re:sails, yards, rigging blocks, etc. This image illustrates how I proceed with the rigging stage regarding small to miniature models.
Because I don't use wire to glue on lines  -rather linen, silk or cotton), the approach is different. I begin at the bow, starting with the sprit mast and all the rigging components thereof and then work my way toward the stern, one mast at a time.

This requires great patience and focus...like a jeweler who works in the backroom placing diamonds and precious stones in ornaments. Hence, my models reflect this; they are like 3D ornaments in miniature that is precise in every detail. Therefore I would not recommend this assignment to anyone who believes they can come to this level 'overnight'...It doesn't happen. For me, it took years...and serious collectors know this.

The first lines to be laid is the standing rigging (black lines), followed by the running rigging (beige lines). In miniature work, if the model will feature sails, it's best to prepare them with the running lines attached to both sail and yard before completing the system to the mast. After that is done it will be time to address the lanyards and shrouds.

Here, I show how microscopic the rigging blocks are. Carving these and drilling tiny holes into them take hours -and for double and sister blocks the challenge is even greater because the hand must be very steady and the eyes keen. Magnifiers, alone can't guarantee quality; the eyes (with the magnifiers) must be in unison to achieve this...Above the blocks is the finished sail. For effect and realism of cloth I made both gentle and sharp folds to areas where the sail will be pulled by the lines.

This effect will be shown in future images.

The spritsail is shown with all its lines before being attached to the mast. It is good to remember to rig all blocks to the masts and stays (which include the tops and caps) before attaching any sail system. Failure to do this will ruin the build...which is why patience and concentration is paramount.

     A brief note...

The blocks and tackles viewed in this starboard image is practically throughout the entire model. Many contemporary models don't show them -or most of them. These were essential fittings for the functioning values of the ship. Without them many lines would not be able to sustain the stress factor of sails, yards or masts. Based on the existing blueprints (and my own ), I have in place nearly 60 tackle systems.

If a good  model is to be realized and counted for accuracy...it's best to add them.                             

So far this has been an interesting second chapter on the build. The next will focus on the foremast and the areas around it. For more information about me visit https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals . Videos representing some of my recent work (which can be commissioned) can be viewed at https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

Correspondence concerning commissions can be sent to Caseships@yahoo.com.

A special note:

Some of you have kit(s) that you want to enjoy...not having the time (or being delayed) to complete or build them. In my line of experience, I can modify your kit(s) to be historically accurate in fine detail -and can safely package and ship your gem globally. The contact information is above.

Fairwinds and thanks for viewing!