H.M.S. PRINCE -The Airfix Modification...Part Three/ Rex Stewart

 This third series addresses deck layout, rigging and belay points. There is much to say on this subject, but from this above image, I need to say very little. In short, the information is out there...and can be very beneficial -provided time is taken to find it.

Many Prince models I've seen were rushed to ruin because the builder took on the persona of 'oh well' after realizing errors. This is why I'm adamant about careful study and what I research. If quality is the objective, then persistence and patience must be practiced at 'your' pace. It's 'your' model and 'your' perception on how 'you' want it to be. Whether mediocre or fine, the decision is 'yours'...and you must be happy with it.

During the 1980s and '90s many builders were in competition with one another to grab that 'spotlight' -especially in the arena of sailing ships. As a result, there was mass confusion about ships, their design, rigging methods, etc., etc. Even galleries climbed aboard to promote their 'superstars' until I arrived.

To that end, I faced opposition from all sides, but weathered those storms of vanity to be persistent in my chosen livelihood -with extended support from real experts whom provided me the jewels of their findings. I discovered a page of history unfolding because many were women.

This third series will not be about technique(s), rather about the process as to how I came about my findings -starting with the first images below:

As a rule of thumb I build my models by correctly scaling them; and making changes to kits that don't accurately have the pieces in sync with the build. This is done by drawing a figure to match the model's scale and the supporting items. Most of the time I find that I must discard these items and replace them with custom pieces to match what's on the template. By doing this early, the rigging process becomes less taxing.

The three principle areas of focus I consider for a build such as this are doors, stairwells, and railings. If these elements conform to scale, then everything else will fit accordingly. This closeup view show the doors, stairwell and railing system which I modified to give the appearance of a real ship. There's yet much to do...

Another closeup showing the quarter and poop deck stairs and bulkheads. The plastic windows were removed and replaced with acetate. The doors were tedious by way of removing; these were adjusted in open position with shaved basswood. I find that doors fully and partially open tend to be more attractive -bringing the viewer to it.

Port overview showing the progress of the main and quarter decks. In the Airfix kit limited grating was featured, so I improvised and made the grates for every deck except the poop -or roundhouse deck. I noticed this to be true for other kits on this subject; but the reality was that ships needed these grates to have ventilation -especially when engaging the enemy. The smoke needed a place to escape and the gratings were created for that purpose. Unfortunately, many modelers miss this...or choose not to place them effectively. 

This overview show the complete deck and grating system for PRINCE. 

Another flaw are admiralty type models which are used for a project's absolute...They are not 'absolutes' -they are study models.There must be an understanding what is meant by an admiralty model from this period. Like any ship model of this era, these were prototypes created to present the Admiralty a three dimensional schematic of what the ship might look like. It was not the conclusion, as features were added and/or dismissed during the actual build. Furthermore, rigging was at the discretion of the captain and/or ranking officer, so even in that area nothing was yet conclusive until the vessel went to its sea trials. This is where I encourage modelers to seriously study the basic rigging practices of the period and incorporate it before presenting the word 'museum quality'.

This is not a play on words; serious modelmakers know this.

Below is one of my notable woodsculpted dioramas that I created in the 1990s depicting "The Admiralty c.1660". Here, the Admiralty members are viewing a vessel prototype before it's voted upon for construction. Since that time I only produced two of these which were immediately bought -and since I'm working on PRINCE, I will probably produce my third and last diorama to honor the Airfix Trilogy.

The next views of the build highlight the detail to the forecastle. I studied many PRINCE models to make a fair assessment of the ship. Applying what I studied and researched, this is my conclusion. I noticed that there were no bitts shown at the foremast base. It's obvious that these were there based on paintings and drawings showing rigging leading down to that area. Furthermore, the conclusion of the matter lies with Vasa that was raised in 1961 and the restoration of both USS Constitution and England's HMS VICTORY. 

Bitts lightened the stress of the massive yards and sails -which occasionally had tackles to assist. However, the bitts and knightheads (part of the bitts system) had to be reinforced by way of the deck and not the rail. Again, the admiralty model did not serve its purpose here because I strongly believe it was only emphasizing possibilities. But based on the evidence of Constitution, Vasa, and Victory this feature was essential.

Airfix Prince model looking forward showing enhanced detailing of the forecastle. The belfry was solid which was customized to include the brass bell. Both cabin doors are open so it can afford the viewer  observance of the open ports and cannon. On the forecastle deck behind the belfry are the bitts and galley stack.

Another angle from starboard...

And finally, a starboard profile...

This concludes the decking process on a much heralded kit from Airfix. What makes this kit worthy of build are the many variations one can do with it. Even if I were to build another, it would look entirely different from this; albeit probably one without sails.

The guns and boats are now the next step before addressing the masts. Below, are images of how miniature (and detailed) this will be. One gun alone with full tackle take about two to three hours; but, well worth the investment for achieving a quality model.

It's been a pleasure featuring this build up to this stage -and I hope the next blog will go further in depth regarding the tackle systems, rigging and other details that may have been overlooked in previous Prince models.

Thanks for viewing!

H.M.S. Prince c.1670 -The Art Of Modification/ Rex Stewart

This portside view defines the beauty of this popular kit that was introduced in the mid 1960s. It is a current build that was to have been part of the trilogy series I started in 1980. Before pursuing scratchbuilding work, I acquired plastic kits for this academic study. In them I could experiment with different applications such as using custom made parts made of wood, metal, and various fibers to get certain details I researched from publications...The first such experiment began with the Airfix Classic Series model SAINT LOUIS of 1626.

Here in this in this 1980 news image, I am working on the Airfix Saint Louis c.1626 that was part of the Classic series -and the first to be part of the 'trilogy build'. The British company was producing outstanding sailing ship models at the time and it was my desire to build three models of its Classic Series edition to show (in detail) the rigging types of the 17th century. To accomplish this I needed the best references -and because I couldn't afford them, I reached out to the business community to assist.

I had already attained support from the Jewish girls at the University I attended as an art student relative to stain/varnish applications -along with the technique of gold leafing. So, it was just a matter of time before I could get this quality of workmanship exposed to the general public. Twenty years later these models were acquired by collectors for their intrinsic beauty thanks, in part, to that culture.

The book that is shown in the photo is the ever-so-popular "The Ship" by author Bjorn Landstrom. I used his illustration of Saint Louis and two other references to complete the build. So detailed was this plastic kit that those who visited wanted to purchase it. I enjoyed it for a few years and finally released it -placing on hold my ambition of completing the "Airfix Trilogy".

  

Upon releasing the SAINT LOUIS to an area businessman/collector, it would be 41 years before I would, again, get the opportunity to finish the 'trilogy'. Last year I searched every corner of the internet for a vintage H.M.S. PRINCE model -having finished both ROYAL SOVEREIGN (Sovereign of the Seas) and the Airfix WASA. Those models were gifted to me by a local woman whom father took ill and recommended her to locate and phone me of his inventory.

At first I didn't see the total picture of the acquisition until I finished both kits, then the revelation came. It was the appointed time to engage the trilogy again, applying to it the new and updated skills I developed. Both SOVEREIGN and WASA was well received via the internet; and of those few who witnessed the builds in person, the expression on their faces became the testimony. It was then that I knew the trilogy was an assignment to be completed.

The above photo is the Airfix Classic Series H.M.S. PRINCE that I received last year.

 With anticipation, I carefully opened the box and studied each piece - writing notes concerning what I would keep and/or discard in the build. I also evaluated what wooden replacements would be handmade in place of those pieces discarded. However, before the build was to begin, I had to copy my former projects SOVEREIGN and WASA by way of preparing new rigging diagrams.

Here, I correct notes to update rigging. I studied various Prince models, both museum and professional  -including kits...finding that additional lines were omitted for the sake of clarity. I have always been thorough in research and build. This newer PRINCE was no exception.

I had the good fortune of building two PRINCE models some years ago (from scratch); one a large cutaway and the other a 1/16 scale miniature. In the miniature I applied minute detail that invited  serious collectors of which it was finally released to a Texas businessman whom eventually commissioned other miniatures to compliment his collection.

                         Working the large scale 1:12 Prince Cutaway during my early years.

                                 Detail closeup of miniature PRINCE fully rigged 1/16 scale.

The next photos show the process of how I address the hull. It's time-consuming but well worth the investment to carefully assess all the pieces of the kit. I noticed the deep grooves that was supposedly meant to highlight the planks; but it's vital to know that no such grooves existed on these vessels. Planking was tight -and the same is true for the decks. The grooves are raised -and it would make for a more realistic, attractive model if the decks are partially sanded or replaced with actual wood decking. For these models I chose to replace the plastic with wood.

Below are two photos showing my application of wood filler to the grooves prior to sanding. Normal drying time for filler would be 24-48 hours before working the hull. During this time I returned to the blueprints to study and alter deck furniture arrangement, which included the stowed boats. The schematics would be rough drafts until I got more involved with the build; it would then require more  accurate details. But for the moment my focus remained on the drying filler. 

After the filler was dry (and sanded to the touch), a soft bristle brush was usedt absorb the debris  I blew away as I wiped in a front to back motion. This is best because it will give some idea as to whether or not another application is needed. The gunports were cut out during the drying stage as I held each hull piece with a paper towel. In doing this, hand oils are prevented from marring the surface -leaving it clean for smooth painting. As a result the paint colors are richer and look realistic with a patina finish. 

Beautiful is an understatement relative to the galleries of PRINCE. Of course there were a number of impressive looking British ships of those times, but because of the general population voting on this ship -based solely on visual perception, the Airfix engineers wasted no time perfecting this detail. And as such, I took it another step further by carving away the excess and added more by way of adhesives and parchment.

With those additions more detail was achieved by cutting away the gallery windows to later add acetone windows as shown in the supporting image.

The next process was for me to quickly go over the interior to decide what modifications would be worked first. I knew the bow had to be addressed. However the interior was equally important since I had to revise the gun barrels in proper scale to fit the ports...Past this, I moved on to the bow.

I would consider the bow the most challenging area of the ship, simply because more rigging runs there than in any other place. Much of the area is tight, but can be successful to rig provided it's not rushed; especially for 17th and 18th century ships. As for design details, I make every attempt to keep it scale-friendly. In otherwords, drafting figurine images/ deck furniture to use as a template for custom work. Below, I'm carefully routing into the plastic -imitating the detail that is featured on the museum model at the Kennington War Museum in England. Also, I've modified the figurehead with a few added details which appears in the second image.

On the issue of techniques...

Often I receive requests concerning my applications to both scratchbuilt and kit assignments. And frankly, I don't share that information because each artist/craftsman has a special gift that is solely unique unto that individual. I can't say this enough. It's one thing to clone a subject matter, but another to usurp one's identity to it with similarities.

I encourage potential artistans to find their own path and explore (with research) their own gift. It's easy.

Now that I've cleared the air, I move on to the next process which will be featured in 'Part Two' of this series. There will be unspeakable details that will alter how future modelbuilders will view this subject...whether it be from a kit such as this, or created from scratch. Whatever the medium, the subject will still 'float' the same. The name will still be the same. The only change will be overlooked details.

It's been a pleasure introducing this vintage kit that was introduced on the market nearly 60 years ago. There are still many unbuilt kits in existence which should be considered 'built' and viewed for enjoyment as they were intended. For this, I raise my glass to the early engineers and draftsmen who designed this model. It is, and was one of the masterpieces of the day and I'm fortunate to be able to bring it back as part of my trilogy to Airfix.

Thanks for viewing!

VASA -The Swedish Warship In Modification/ Rex Stewart...Part One

                       Airfix Classic shipmodel kit of VASA showing finished bow modification.

It is a beautiful thing when people can appreciate your work to the extent of purchase -and then call or write about their satisfaction years later...followed by the continued support of their siblings. Such patronage is priceless which only encourage better and greater work.

For me, it was never about money; it was about art and engineering -with the skill to produce fine art in everything I touched...Money was (and is) the reward for honesty in what I did, and for what I continue to do. Nothing more; nothing less.

In this genre of ship models, I am a humble man. I painstakingly study a vessel. And for the most part draft or re-draft plans based on my findings. From these discoveries, I incorporate them in my models -whether scratchbuilt or kits. The majority of my pieces are scratchbuilt. However, I occasionally (by commission) modify kits to give the the same quality as my scratchbuilt pieces -and upon sight, one cannot tell the difference; which doesn't condemn what I do, but place it at another level..

Collectors enjoy my work and purchase (at times) in multiples...only because they need to view them to compare the quality; hence, a collection is born. And it doesn't make a difference whether it's wood or plastic. It's all about the skill and ability behind the work(s) that bring the human eye to it.

We now begin 'our' beautiful journey to the thing people can see and appreciate...

I began purchasing Airfix kits in the early 1980s. There was something about this product that drew me to them (the ships). Of course they were plastic -as I had not yet became prolific with wood models. However, that gradually manifested when discovering the history of the Hudson River steamboat. In this image VASA was one of the first kits I bought to indulge my curiosity of its contents -after reading Bjorn Landstrom's book "The Royal Warship VASA".

Both book and kit was purchased from the sale of my colored pencil drawing of the WINSTON CHURCHILL shown in the photo image below.

My early pencil of the training ship WINSTON CHURCHILL...the drawing which purchased my first Airfix kit, VASA.

Every beginner or journeyman that starts a kit often becomes intimidated by its contents and usually shelf it without giving thought that the motivation to build is real. The pitfall is the many pieces viewed upon; the 'win' is the confidence in studying the pieces and establish a plan as to what will be addressed 'first'. No one builds the same. Everyone has a standard they follow; and if that standard produces an untarnishable satisfaction to move on to the next project (after completing the first), then that beginner and/or journeyman has now established the hobby and/or career.

When I look at the hull-halves and stern, I already know what need to be addressed. Kits have flaws -period, and one shouldn't be discouraged by them. Building should be the focus with the expectancy of error. I realized the VASA' hull needed work and appreciated the fact I could add my own signature to it. This is what makes a project exciting, the fact that it's your signature and not a copied style.

Artist - historian Bjorn Landstrom became my motivation for individuality as an artist-craftsman; and ultimately, a historian. I was drawn to his books during my youth because his references were paramount from that which I studied in the Albany school system. It was his first book "The Ship" that captured my imagination of the maritime. And as the years passed, I inquired and acquired his publications to learn more indepth how these vessels were constructed.

His last book "The Royal Warship VASA" was the book that changed my perspective on ship design and modelmaking. I studied the details (and rigging) which helped me to correct his applications   -based on another author from England named Percival Marshall...He, too, was advanced; but Bjorn was key to my detailed work which centered around his findings from the actual ship.

With my experience as a fine artist/craftsman, I knew my calling in the American maritime was eminent, though it would be met with opposition. However, I dealt with it successfully and continued on because of Bjorn's writings.

As I assessed the VASA kit, these two supporting images show the early stages of the build.

I begin by marking the hull below the waterline -down to the keel at the points where pins will be inserted. These pins are temporary until the cradle is made to support the actual pins that will permanently secure the model to both cradle and display base.

The second image show the hulls clamped to align it (and its markings) to the custom foamcore.       
This foamcore base will be the workbench for finishing the model from the deck -upwards; making it easier to address the sails and rigging without physically touching those properties.

Notice the exposed ribs on the roundhouse deck above the stern galleries. This wasn't on the actual ship when raised, so that feature will be carved away during modification.

Here in this starboard profile, the hull is modified from bow to stern. Many features were altered and/or changed to conform to the actual build. Other features were added that was commonplace for 17th century ships.

Before and after photos showing the enhanced galleries and gunports. The gunport lids on the model were raised and weren't flush with the hull, so I cut away the ports and followed through with the plastic lids because of the lion carvings. The wood lids replaced the plastic ones -so to lend more realism to the model.

Quality and detail have always been paramount to my builds. The interior is no exception.

Here, I place wood decking only in areas that will support the cannon(s). Instead of gluing the plastic guns into the prefabricated sockets from the kit,the ports are drilled (and cut away) to house the cannons...This affords the opportunity to have guns at various positions to make for a lifelike model.

These are the exquisite details collectors watch for.

So that wood bonds to wood, I show the custom made cannons which would better serve the build as a permanent fixture. Plastic has the tendency to dry out over time as I have witnessed when restoring plastic kits for clients. The cement was brittle (due to various climatic changes)...and for the most part I discovered those models were placed in direct sunlight or high heated areas.

It's best to get good quality resin glue for wood and replace plastic items (when possible). Many models have stood the test of time because of this procedure. Resin can last for years without decaying or drying out.

Every artist has his/her style when painting a fine piece. There are really no standards to follow except for personal intuition. While some techniques work for some, it doesn't work for others. I learned this early-on during my youth. Art teachers, and then art professors, would attempt to persuade my values to the point of 'crossing swords'...I vehemently encourage any who have a unique way of achieving the same end with better results, to stay the course even if compromise will fail you.

That being said (or written), I find that kits should be examined carefully before purchasing any paints to address it. Brushes should also be a factor in the application. Every artist/craftsman has a certain preference for bringing out the best quality in their work. If this wasn't true we would not have variety!

Here, I paint the fine detail of the galleries while the hull is still in progress... I paint as I assemble; not pre-paint. The reason for this is because correction has to be made -and parts can occasionally be warped. These problems will always exist, and it's better to mentally prepare for these snags and not assume perfection at first glance.

The finished backend and starboard side stern galleries...

With the backend and starboard galleries finished, I now work on the portside of the hull. My focus is on the gunports and the arrangement of those which were open on that day. Since it was wind that sank her, and reports were given of water being taken in on the lower gun deck, I tend to lean on the fact that buoyancy was the issue, not wind....From documents (which much disappeared), it was duly noted that VASA did have her full armament that day. And since it was a trial sailing, it is safe to place emphasis on the guns being secured at the ship's center for buoyancy; but not enough buoyance to keep her afloat since there wasn't enough on her keelson... But that can be disputed when viewing the English ships.

Now that both halves have been painted, I proceed with converting the plastic deck to wood - rearranging the entire layout to conform with the settings. Even the ship's sloop will be re-designed to emulate the actual sloop at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm.

Basswood and/or cherry are the choice woods for these models, as they lend to the elegance of their appearance.

The next stage of the build will focus on the beakhead and hull in Part Two.

Kits should not be played down as being something of a hobby or pastime. These can be professionally modified to become museum pieces and collectibles, or both. It's really the level of quality that determines the build. As a professional I have endlessly proven this for years. So now there is no excuse to belittle kits (as I have witnessed in several forums). Flaws are everywhere and can appear when least expected; but, with a openmind and keen eyes, flaws can become 'flawless'...with patience.

For those who enjoy this type work and have kits to be modified -or wish to have one built from scratch, kindly contact me: Caseships@yahoo.com. For more information about me and what I do, please visit https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart/ and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

I now leave you, the viewer, with those thoughts and look forward to the next blog on this subject of VASA c.1628.