This photo represents the next procedure of the VASA build which are the masts and rigging. The next three photos show how the plastic masts are substituted with wood -while keeping and modifying the tops as shown below.
First stage...
Second stage...
The comparison and distinction between plastic verses wood. The masts and crosstrees are birch, while the mast cheeks and caps are bass. Both items are custom-stained and varnished with spar urethane; the actual substance applied to sailing vessels.
Third stage...
Joining same materials together will assure longevity, re: wooden mast to wooden deck.
After stepping masts in holes, I secure them with needlepoint glue application to make areas clean for rigging, especially since coiled ropes are needed in this area.
Port profile show all VASA masts aligned and secured properly. Of note, both sprit topmast and foremasts extend straight up, while the main and mizzen masts are raked backward. This was the rule of Swedish and Dutch ships of that period.
Full starboard profile showing stepped masts...
One point that I missed in this area of build, and that is the anchor scrub swabs. These were important to the ship for removing barnacles, seaweed and other debris as the anchor(s) were fished and secured to the channels. I've received 'arguments' from others as this being 'tow rags' for the toilets. But given the scale and the stiff appearance of this feature in various drawings I concurred with the findings of Bjorn Landstrom.
This apparatus (tow rags) would have been in the bow/beakhead location of the ship. But surely, not at the scale featured in contemporary drawings of that period. Those artists took painstaking effort to scale those swabs accurately. To further support my findings, the period and contemporary illustrations below are evident relevant to scale.
The first drawing created by artist Willem van de Velde show the swab hanging outboard at the stowed anchor on the fore channel. The drawing below the first show two swabs on another ship hanging below the beakhead gratings near the area of the anchor cables.
And finally (to scale), Bjorn Landstrom's drawing showing the same system below.
The next three photos will show how I positioned the swabs on the model based on those references:
After addressing the swab feature, I pushed the focus toward all the areas that involved the masts and rigging -including the deck furniture that supported it.
Engineering is very effective here because it's not that simple to expect quality rigging if it isn't properly planned. Furthermore, there is no guarantee that the lines will correctly belay based on common generics... Rigging will be uniform -provided the masts and yards are set correctly, as there are no shortcuts.Therefore, expect complicated lines (and their falls) to be belayed with a clean, professional appearance which will be based upon establishing correct belay points.
Notes and early diagrams of these belay points must be planned -with room to make corrections as the process continue. There are no hard or fast rules to 16th and 17th century rigging. Accuracy should be the foundation but it's not always the rule; so any builder who venture here will have intense homework to pursue.
A few of those assignments lie in the area of halyards, parrels, topropes and tackles. These are seldom applied on good models and I must conclude it was a challenge rigging them, or limited knowledge of them. One thing is certain; without these features, very little can be said about 'accuracy'. And for ships of this period to not have these is like a boat not having oars.
This port profile deals specifically with what's been written. Notice the halyards, tackles and topropes. These principle lines make up the major functionality of the 16th and 17th century ship. Unfortunately, this detail will be hidden behind the shrouds and ratlines -and will only be noticeable when viewing the model from behind looking forward.
The next step in this process is rigging the stays...I use one of my rigging chopsticks to hold up the mainstay so that the shrouds can be rigged beneath the collar.
This closeup view show details of tackle, toprope and halyard lines which are roped and coiled at their belay points. This type of rigging gives more depth and authenticity to the VASA...Also in this closeup I discerned that there were no bits to take on the fore sail bunt lines -lines which assisted the clews to raise the sails and reef them to the yards.
Such bunts could not have been belayed on the side bulwarks due to the positioning of the cannons. Therefore, the other alternative would have been to secure those lines to bits at the base of the mast. The remaining pins behind the mast (as shown) were to secure the clews and lifts of both fore course and fore topsail. All other lines relating to this ship either went to the tops or the side bulwark pins.
Another closeup (starboard view) showing the miniature falls and rope coiling on deck. And finally, I show a portside overview of the tackle systems in the image below.
The model is coming along nicely...
In this image I am drafting a layout for belay points on the VASA fore deck. As I continue to build, I discover new points that general models don't feature -such as deck bitts that take on the tackles for principle lines that are frequently used on the ship. In this case (as shown) -the bunts.
Much of the drafts begin this way to make it easier for future references, should a (scratchbuilt or kit) model be requested. And yes, it is very time-consuming; but from a Scriptural perspective it is written to "let patience work its perfect work." So yes, my perfection concerning these projects are based solely on patience.
I conclude this segment on the premise of rigging procedure. The images give the viewer a visual perception of high quality that can be obtained from a mere kit. The only ingredients for this is patience, research, and the exploration and experimentation of materials that work best.
Each builder has their niche which will set that builder apart from others. Therefore, kindly abolish the comparison rule on this -or any endeavor...There are different levels that exist to get an artist to the next (level). In otherwords, what you own is yours, alone -and it becomes very personal to 'you'...which brings a question to you which is: "How bad do 'you' want it?"
So, if you are attempting to acquire excellence in a thing, then you must be prepared to endure the pitfalls. Don't be discouraged, just enjoy what you do and you will be fine -guaranteed.
For those who are limited in their resources and are unable to commission a scratchbuilt model. The second option would be a kit (regardless of medium). Whether it be wood or plastic, I have the ability to make it most impressive and worthy -since accuracy and detail are the formulas for my creations.
If interested, write: Caseships@yahoo.com or call 1-774-757-7137 for details. You can also view my profile and other supporting images at https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals
Building, or rather modifying this vintage Airfix kit has been quite an experience...and the journey continues. Thank you for viewing!
