Sovereign Of The Seas - The Art Of Modification...Part Three/ Rex Stewart

A closeup view-  Sovereign of the Seas forecastle deck, foremast and rigging lines...

Working with this vintage model from the Airfix series is the perfect kit for assessing SOVEREIGN's true structure relative to gun arrangement and layout. Many features throughout this build had to be altered to the degree of scale, guns, gratings and belay points...For a fighting ship there had to be enough space to move around the guns and rigging. Also, the rigging had to be clear of the guns in order for them to operate properly on their carriages.

I noticed the bow chasers on the upper forecastle were positioned four across. Based on the structure of the catheads (and the stepping of the foremast) there would have been no room for these guns to recoil. The mast, alone, makes it evident that only two chasers were there, not four. The falcons (port and starboard) are correct.

On many models I noticed there are no galley stacks. Why?

Meals were prepared forward of the ship, therefore the stove was located somewhere on the second or third deck above the waterline away from the crew.

I did not see any kit or institutional model feature any open companionways for the crew to  have immediate accessibility to guns and/or rigging prior to battle or weather conditions. Because of these factors I just didn't want to build 'another' SOVEREIGN; but have one that was a study model showing authentic deck layout and rigging of the period...Not by assumption or speculation, but by fact.

Before proceeding with rigging of the foremast, I had to concentrate on the anchors and how they were secured to the channels. Airfx anchors were perfectly scaled and correctly matched the channel length for stowing. However, the channel width was too narrow to house the anchor's bill so I had to widen that feature. This also helped to avoid having the ratlines touch the rails on the forecastle.

I kept the bill but modified the stem and stock as shown in the above image.

For my references to the anchor area I used both artist renditions from Van De Velde (the elder) who lived during that period and the contemporary illustration of artist Bjorn Landstrom. I considered these two sources very credible -based on my 40 years of maritime research.

Here, the anchor is stowed which give room for the second to be stowed and lashed properly as illustrated in the above Van De Velde drawing. Notice in the rendition a system of complete gratings covering the gun decks...In reality the system NEVER existed because it would not have given the crew leeway to operate the rigging for the sails. Furthermore, you have capstans which were essential for hoisting the large sails and yards; not to mention loading supplies and dispatching the boats.

It's difficult to fathom many builders ignoring those facts and succumb to so-called historians with their theories based on artist renditions and/or paintings. To make my point, view the contemporary illustration below and ask 'how' the crew was able to get past the gratings to be on deck to trim the sails? The stowed boats dictate grating could not have been present except on the spar deck where the spars are shown! Why won't modelmakers and historians 'do' the homework?

It took me 38 years to bring this truth to bear!

Contemporary drawing created during the 1980s that raised my suspicions at that time relative to the rigging factor and how it clashed with the reality of operational rigging systems. Also the contradiction of painting the topsides 'blue'...stealing the identity away from this ship when it was probably used as the color under the rule of King James when the PRINCE ROYAL was built in 1610. Under the son, Charles I, his ships carried black topsides.

Now, back to the rigging...

Before actual rigging is done, I first address how I want the sails to set -based on the wind setting. I find many models interesting because the builder presents to the viewer his or her view of how the vessel is operating -whether in calm waters or rough seas. Most don't understand that this small detail is the essence to good model presentation -on all levels. However, imagination is the key.

In this image I sketch out the sail from the same paper stock that these will be made from, keeping in mind that I'm focusing on wind movement (first), then on how the rigging will set based on that movement. The image implies that the sail is being let down by the bunts, keeping in mind that the port anchor is being lifted for stowing.

After the sail is drawn, it is cut out and folded to match both the indents and folds where the lines run which include the attached blocks. This add realism to the masts; but the rigging must be engineered in such a way where the lines can pass through the blocks without fouling or getting twisted with other lines. This process is tedious and must be planned ahead of time before securing the sail to the yards. And as shown, the yard is above the finished sail awaiting attachment.

The below image show the sail and yard concept as one unit, and the detail of those lines pre-arranged for the next step of rigging. It all looks complicated, and technically it is; but with practice everything will start to flow and balance...giving an effective result.
                                                                                                                                                                 

The next two images show how beautiful and effective the rigging process is when the completed sail has been attached to the mast. All other remaining lines are then attached to systems at the fore and aft points on the model...Concentration is 'key' so not to disrupt or foul existing lines -and the eyes must always focus in every and all directions during the build so not to ruin work that's taken weeks or months to accomplish.

Two views showing the main course attached and rigged to the mast with lines falling to their respective belay points.

In my study of rigging , I noticed 17th century ships had basic lines for their large ships that were universal. These were lines that contemporary models omitted or used randomly. Some lines were not present because of confusion to their leads and falls. These were bunts, martnetts, relieving tackles, bowlines, and top ropes. Other details were various stay designs between the main and mizzen masts -and tackle systems that assisted in relieving the strain of a line when masts and yards were hoisted or lowered.

In my calculation there must have been 50 - 60 tackle systems operating this ship (and other European ships of those times, re: France, Holland, Sweden, Spain, etc.)...

Coming upon the last leg of the build, I studied the Van De Velde painting in the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich, England. I noticed the complicated mizzen stay systems of the top and topgallant masts. I had to decide how to approach it on such a small model at 1:168 scale. Below is the procedure and the following photo, the result.

The procedure...

The result...

On a miniature of this size, it is important to have the stays in place before completing the final segment of sail making and rigging. The most challenging part of this process is rigging the braces and bringing them down to their belay points without destroying the ensign flag. This is very tedious, even for the expert...and it's based upon the seriousness of the build.

In this particular image, I address the running rigging of the lateen sail. Since the model will show the sails taking in the breeze, I gently billowed this sail to show this effect without over-exaggerating the realism. In the background is the vintage thread used for the boltropes seen around the sail and the cake of beeswax used to preserve the threads from rotting.

The finished lateen is now ready to be installed...

The final diagram review of modification and corrections before completing Sovereign of the Seas.

Nothing can be more rewarding than to lose oneself in the annals of history and rediscover roads that others have trail blazed. It is not a put down of any individual's work, but rather an opportunity to study and enhance what's already been without ruining a finding based on pride. I have always honored those who opened doors to truths that many have ignored. Always wanting to know 'more' about a thing and not settle for mediocrity.

I am thankful for all those who have built their SOVEREIGNs before I was to actually build mine. All were helpful with my assessments and evaluations to a ship that held unanswered data that brought me into the fold. And because of these individuals, I better understanding for the traditional shipbuilding methods of the period.

No man's findings are absolute, but in those findings there will always be purpose; and that is absolute.

I now depart from this blog to prepare the finale. Thank you for taking the consideration to read and view the images!

For commissioned work, whether scratchbuilt or kit modification, please send your requests to Caseships@yahoo.com. My profile page can be viewed at https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart. Videos representing my recent works can be viewed at https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals


A special note:

Some of you have kits that you want to enjoy...not having the time (or being delayed) to complete -or build them. In my line of experience, I can modify your kits to be historically accurate in fine detail -and can safely package and ship your gem globally.

The contact information is above.


 

Sovereign Of The Seas - The Art Of Modification...Part Two/ Rex Stewart

The Sovereign of the Seas overview image showing the deck interior with the supporting profile image of  J. Payne's well-known engraving showing her reconstruction.

In the first part of this build, I made mention of how I discarded much of the plastic parts and modified the kit with the replacement of wooden parts. In other words, going a step above to enhance and give visual clarity to overlooked details. In many models that I studied many details were questionable and not scaled properly -such as the doors, capstan to the height of the doors, and the ladder systems of steps from one deck to the other.

Then there was the accessibility to these decks. Were ladders used and covered with gratings? And for cooking purposes; where was the stack attachment to the stove? On the British  HMS Victory and the American USF Constitution the stack is forward. To secure this detail I redesigned the forecastle
and place it 'there' -forward as shown in the above image.

Since there were no real existing plans on SOVEREIGN (other than the 19th century plan housed at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich), everything was speculative...being based on various artists' renditions of the period. It is from those renditions that I weighed my research values.

These next images focus on the hull details before moving on to mast and sail systems.

This image show the revised half, quarter, and roundhouse decks. I kept the styrene bulkheads and modified them with ornate carvings. All the doors were cut away and replaced with open wooden  ones. The windows were all cut away and replaced with templar. There were no stern stairs leading to the roundhouse deck; just simplified ladders, so I went to classic drawings to give me the correct staircase for that period.

               The finished, modified hull from the Airfix Special Edition Royal Sovereign 1637.

Completed stern galleries...Note the addition of the shield-carrying unicorn and lion. Tedious work, but made of wood all the same. Additional carvings were added to the gallery. All windows were  removed and replaced with templar. The stern lantern was also customized with templar and small dabs of resin to simulate pearl carvings on the roof, etc. This detail took approximately two weeks to accomplish.

After completing the stern galleries, pinrails, bits and blocks were made to assist the rigging. For the world of me I could not understand why many builders did not have them featured in their correct areas on the models. Some argued that pinrails did not exist during the period of the Spanish Armada War, but evidence showed differently -even in ships 20 years before the conflict. Afterall, those many lines had to be attached somewhere...and they were not hitched on timberheads as some historians claim. These men were merely following 'tradition' of the letter.

For years I studied models, paintings, drawings (and plans) -attempting to make sense of the confusion to this particular vessel. Of all the contemporary, detailed models out there; many were rigged properly...including some of the period of SOVEREIGN. But for some reason, focus was on her ornaments and basic rig complimented her sailing features...She was designed in such fashion that she outlived two British kings; making her, in deed, the Sovereign of the Seas!

I refused to settle with galleries at that time with the "take it as it come" attitude concerning my method of research. Hence, I departed from the lot and ventured on my own and took delight being independent to find discoveries concerning European ships. Here, in this image, is one of the rigging plans I created in 1981 and modified in 2018 concerning the layout on the forecastle deck... I worked this process for all deck areas of the ship.

Once the rigging plans were created I then proceeded with the masts and yards -scaling them down to  proper length and width as described in the ship's list of the period. The Airfix kit had them shorter...Notice the 1:168  scale crew figure in the background drawing. I used both it and the capstan for the entire build. Airfix had the spritsail yard further back, whereas I compensated by placing a visible black marking on the styrene as a reference for correct positioning of that yard... but only after careful study of several plans and models.

The next step was to address the fore, main and mizzen masts...My concern was the height of them and how they would factor into the overall rigging. The lines had to run easily through the blocks and belay at the rails/pins without fouling. Below, the two images show new wooden masts and rigging blocks being made in place of the plastic. The kit had no blocks at all, yet it was advanced enough to have them.

                               Here, I begin carving and shaping the dowels for the masts...

                               Masts and miniature blocks in progress...

Customized tops were made...using the existing ones from the kit. Modification to the rails were necessary for holding and securing the shrouds and futtock shrouds The rails were also essential for hitching lines that led from mast stays and yards.                                                                                 

In this image the masts are temporarily stepped so that lines can be adjusted before actually securing. This takes exceptional engineering and planning -especially getting those lines down through the gratings to their assigned pins. Once this is accomplished I then remove the masts and pour glue into the holes -replacing back the masts to permanently seal. The hole cavities were created earlier while arranging the deck layout.

With these features in place I now move toward to addressing the flags...followed by yards and sails.

The power of flags...

From every country, to every region and/or territory, flags are the qualifier for identity. If created in a way that attracts the viewer, it can open opportunities in ways unimaginable. For years these have been my signature on vessels -whether sail or steam. Many of my collectors have always complimented this feature and easily identified my work(s) by them. Some collectors commissioned or bought multiple pieces because they enjoyed viewing how I set my sails and enhanced model to be equally compatible to the flags.

For any builder, this is priceless advice.

The British flags that are shown in the images are hand-painted, made from aged bond paper and treated to prevent from becoming brittle over the years. Some models that I created 40 years ago still look 'new' today. In this powerful modification of  SOVEREIGN , the viewer will get to see how the flags will balance the masts, rigging and sails to make it a collector's choice.

In this image, as if viewing from the water (or dock), we see how the flag and masts have a poetic balance as would be found on a real ship of that period.                                                                         

Rigging is one of the most complex and painstaking endeavors to modelmaking. There is no one standard to this approach. It has its pitfalls and challenges. It is up to the builder as to the level desired in the process, re: simple, mediocre or advanced. No one should judge; and yet, I see this quite often in forums that I've reviewed -or at one time been associated with.

There has been many versions of rig for Sovereign of the Seas, both academic and creative. Some rigging methods could be argued, but in the scheme of things findings can only be based on exhaustive research and comprehensive reasoning -nothing more.

The above drawing illustrates my point. It is a contemporary drawing based on artist renditions of time's past. Some lines are accurate and others are inaccurate. The bowsprit rigging is accurate relative to the topmast and spritsail lines  leading to the beakhead. And those lines extending from the foresail systems of the 1637 period also display accuracy for their leads to the beakhead. However, it's up to the builder to establish those belay points to where the lines actually fell. I have not as yet seen it in contemporary pieces, to date.

A brief preview showing the lines belayed in SOVEREIGN's beakhead...

Once the masts are up rigging and all the elements to it are addressed, re:sails, yards, rigging blocks, etc. This image illustrates how I proceed with the rigging stage regarding small to miniature models.
Because I don't use wire to glue on lines  -rather linen, silk or cotton), the approach is different. I begin at the bow, starting with the sprit mast and all the rigging components thereof and then work my way toward the stern, one mast at a time.

This requires great patience and focus...like a jeweler who works in the backroom placing diamonds and precious stones in ornaments. Hence, my models reflect this; they are like 3D ornaments in miniature that is precise in every detail. Therefore I would not recommend this assignment to anyone who believes they can come to this level 'overnight'...It doesn't happen. For me, it took years...and serious collectors know this.

The first lines to be laid is the standing rigging (black lines), followed by the running rigging (beige lines). In miniature work, if the model will feature sails, it's best to prepare them with the running lines attached to both sail and yard before completing the system to the mast. After that is done it will be time to address the lanyards and shrouds.

Here, I show how microscopic the rigging blocks are. Carving these and drilling tiny holes into them take hours -and for double and sister blocks the challenge is even greater because the hand must be very steady and the eyes keen. Magnifiers, alone can't guarantee quality; the eyes (with the magnifiers) must be in unison to achieve this...Above the blocks is the finished sail. For effect and realism of cloth I made both gentle and sharp folds to areas where the sail will be pulled by the lines.

This effect will be shown in future images.

The spritsail is shown with all its lines before being attached to the mast. It is good to remember to rig all blocks to the masts and stays (which include the tops and caps) before attaching any sail system. Failure to do this will ruin the build...which is why patience and concentration is paramount.

     A brief note...

The blocks and tackles viewed in this starboard image is practically throughout the entire model. Many contemporary models don't show them -or most of them. These were essential fittings for the functioning values of the ship. Without them many lines would not be able to sustain the stress factor of sails, yards or masts. Based on the existing blueprints (and my own ), I have in place nearly 60 tackle systems.

If a good  model is to be realized and counted for accuracy...it's best to add them.                             

So far this has been an interesting second chapter on the build. The next will focus on the foremast and the areas around it. For more information about me visit https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals . Videos representing some of my recent work (which can be commissioned) can be viewed at https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

Correspondence concerning commissions can be sent to Caseships@yahoo.com.

A special note:

Some of you have kit(s) that you want to enjoy...not having the time (or being delayed) to complete or build them. In my line of experience, I can modify your kit(s) to be historically accurate in fine detail -and can safely package and ship your gem globally. The contact information is above.

Fairwinds and thanks for viewing!