Ship Model VASA -The Details/ Rex Stewart

This photo represents the next procedure of the VASA build which are the masts and rigging. The next three photos show how the plastic masts are substituted with wood -while keeping and modifying the tops as shown below.

First stage...

 Second stage...

The comparison and distinction between plastic verses wood. The masts and crosstrees are birch, while the mast cheeks and caps are bass. Both items are custom-stained and varnished with spar urethane; the actual substance applied to sailing vessels.

Third stage...

Joining same materials together will assure longevity, re: wooden mast to wooden deck.

After stepping masts in holes, I secure them with needlepoint glue application to make areas clean for  rigging, especially since coiled ropes are needed in this area.

Port profile show all VASA masts aligned and secured properly. Of note, both sprit topmast and foremasts extend straight up, while the main and mizzen masts are raked backward. This was the rule of Swedish and Dutch ships of that period.

Full starboard profile showing stepped masts...

One point that I missed in this area of build, and that is the anchor scrub swabs. These were important to the ship for removing barnacles, seaweed and other debris as the anchor(s) were fished and secured to the channels. I've received 'arguments' from others as this being 'tow rags' for the toilets. But given the scale and the stiff appearance of this feature in various drawings I concurred with the findings of Bjorn Landstrom.

This apparatus (tow rags) would have been in the bow/beakhead location of the ship. But surely, not at the scale featured in contemporary drawings of that period. Those artists took painstaking effort to scale those swabs accurately. To further support my findings, the period and contemporary illustrations below are evident relevant to scale.

The first drawing created by artist Willem van de Velde show the swab hanging outboard at the stowed anchor on the fore channel. The drawing below the first show two swabs on another ship hanging below the beakhead gratings near the area of the anchor cables.

And finally (to scale), Bjorn Landstrom's drawing showing the same system below.

The next three photos will show how I positioned the swabs on the model based on those references:

After addressing the swab feature, I pushed the focus toward all the areas that involved the masts and rigging -including the deck furniture that supported it.

Engineering is very effective here because it's not that simple to expect quality rigging if it isn't properly planned. Furthermore, there is no guarantee that the lines will correctly belay based on common generics... Rigging will be uniform -provided the masts and yards are set correctly, as there are no shortcuts.Therefore, expect complicated lines (and their falls) to be belayed with a clean, professional appearance which will be based upon establishing correct belay points.

Notes and early diagrams of these belay points must be planned  -with room to make corrections as the process continue. There are no hard or fast rules to 16th and 17th century rigging. Accuracy should be the foundation but it's not always the rule; so any builder who venture here will have intense homework to pursue.

A few of those assignments lie in the area of halyards, parrels, topropes and tackles. These are seldom applied on good models and I must conclude it was a challenge rigging them, or limited knowledge of them. One thing is certain; without these features, very little can be said about 'accuracy'. And for ships of this period to not have these is like a boat not having oars.

This port profile deals specifically with what's been written. Notice the halyards, tackles and topropes. These principle lines make up the major functionality of the 16th and 17th century ship. Unfortunately, this detail will be hidden behind the shrouds and ratlines -and will only be noticeable when viewing the model from behind looking forward.

The next step in this process is rigging the stays...I use one of my rigging chopsticks to hold up the mainstay so that the shrouds can be rigged beneath the collar.

This closeup view show details of tackle, toprope and halyard lines which are roped and coiled at their belay points. This type of rigging gives more depth and authenticity to the VASA...Also in this closeup I discerned that there were no bits to take on the fore sail bunt lines -lines which assisted the clews to raise the sails and reef them to the yards.

Such bunts could not have been belayed on the side bulwarks due to the positioning of the cannons. Therefore, the other alternative would have been to secure those lines to bits at the base of the mast. The remaining pins behind the mast (as shown) were to secure the clews and lifts of both fore course and fore topsail. All other lines relating to this ship either went to the tops or the side bulwark pins.

 Another closeup (starboard view) showing the miniature falls and rope coiling on deck. And finally,  I show a portside overview of the tackle systems in the image below.

The model is coming along nicely...

In this image I am drafting a layout for belay points on the VASA fore deck. As I continue to build, I discover new points that general models don't feature -such as deck bitts that take on the tackles for principle lines that are frequently used on the ship. In this case (as shown) -the bunts.

Much of the drafts begin this way to make it easier for future references, should a (scratchbuilt or kit) model be requested. And yes, it is very time-consuming; but from a Scriptural perspective it is written to "let patience work its perfect work." So yes, my perfection concerning these projects are based solely on patience.

I conclude this segment on the premise of rigging procedure. The images give the viewer a visual perception of high quality that can be obtained from a mere kit. The only ingredients for this is patience, research, and the exploration and experimentation of materials that work best.

Each builder has their niche which will set that builder apart from others. Therefore, kindly abolish the comparison rule on this -or any endeavor...There are different levels that exist to get an artist to the next (level). In otherwords, what you own is yours, alone -and it becomes very personal to 'you'...which brings a question to you which is: "How bad do 'you' want it?"

So, if you are attempting to acquire excellence in a thing, then you must be prepared to endure the pitfalls. Don't be discouraged, just enjoy what you do and you will be fine -guaranteed.

For those who are limited in their resources and are unable to commission a scratchbuilt model. The second option would be a kit (regardless of medium). Whether it be wood or plastic, I have the ability to make it most impressive and worthy -since accuracy and detail are the formulas for my creations.

If interested, write: Caseships@yahoo.com or call 1-774-757-7137 for details. You can also view my profile and other supporting images at https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

Building, or rather modifying this vintage Airfix kit has been quite an experience...and the journey continues. Thank you for viewing!



 

Sailing Ship VASA c.1628 -Modified/ Rex Stewart...Part Three

In this third of a five part series, my focus is on the rear deck and bulkhead detail(s) - followed by the stepping of the masts.

 Because the kit was warped (and there were testimonies from other builders), it was necessary to clamp the hull halves during the early stages of construction so that I could assess how much space was needed to fit decks and bulkheads without causing too much stress on the plastic.

In the above photo the helmsman bulkhead is shown in plastic which will be partially customized
in wood. Much of the decorations will be copied from the Landstrom book. The delicate part of this build will be to shave paper-thin wood doors and have them appear open.

A view of the stern deck bulkhead cabins on the actual ship at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden. One flaw that I own up to is my placing the main knighthead portside. In the photo it is clear that it was located starboard. There is no argument here; I concede.

Concerning detail, I transferred what was visible in this photo to my VASA miniature.

This overview of the VASA show the correct deck layout of the ship's furniture (in scale) which include the pinrails and knightheads. The gratings had to be reduced and scaled properly to fit the guns -giving enough room to show the gun carriage run in system when in action.

The wood decking is the highlight which add overall realism...especially with the accent of the coiled ropes which will show freefall from the sails and masts.

Now that decks are finished, I carefully inspect the decoration, gunport and lanyard channels for paint spotting -making sure everything is completely covered. All details must be finished before moving on to the anchors. Usually the build take two days to complete due to the model's miniature scale...but well worth the effort (based on past projects and/or commissions).

The below photo images show the fashion of anchors during the early 17th century on Dutch ships of the period. Since VASA was designed by a Dutch builder, the practice applies to the vessel. I studied contemporary models both here in the States and Europe and was slightly disappointed with my findings which prompted me to return back to Bjorn Landstrom's book for the finer details.

From his book, coupled with my personal research of the Dutch and English Masters (artists), I found his work to be very credible and applied the rigging system accordingly. On either side of the model, the rigging system of these anchors differ. Portside show them stowed and starboard has them fished.

Stowed anchors...portside.

Fished anchors...starboard


Now with anchors completed, the next step of the build are the miniature cannons and boats, followed by the stern lantern and flagstaff.

Armament can be complexed when customizing small scratch-built cannons. Much planning and thought must be weighed -especially when scale is involved. Kits are not designed to be perfect. In fact, kits only present a basic generic of detail -and much of it is not guaranteed to be scaled properly. It's a matter of choice as to the level of detail pursued, but it will cost many hours of research and patience. There are no shortcuts. In the supporting images I begin working on the cannons  -building  them (to scale) accordingly to the ship's deck furniture.

Below are images that reflect the level of  'miniature' I desire to achieve.

As viewed, these cannon miniatures are no longer than two-thirds the width of an American dime (as shown above). The materials used are bass and birchwoods, paper, copper wire and vintage carpet thread for the recoils.

 In this image the cannons are installed. To compliment them, I secure  the shot trays between the guns. In them I simulated cannon balls which can be seen with a magnifier...Below a closeup view of the shot tray.

On many VASA models I noticed the capstan not properly clearing the stowed boats. But what really caught my attention was the absence of the belfry. All ships, especially naval, carried this forward at the bow area of the forecastle.Without this (the belfry) ships would not be functional, especially in battle.

My draft and build of VASA's belfry -using birch for the bell and basswood for the overall structure. A fine sable brush was used to achieve the hairline gold-edged corners and scroll work on the roof facade.

After carefully investigating VASA's forecastle layout, I concluded that the belfry was located between the barrister rail and foremast which void all fouling of cannon tackles and sail rigging as shown in the supporting images.

Stern detail of VASA's deck furniture and cannon. No kit involvement here; all details were scratchbuilt in wood. The next and final approach to finishing the hull will be the inboard boats and ship lantern.

In this three-stage process I use Mr. Landstrom's book to scale (in miniature) the VASA's stern lantern.  Measuring both top and base features, I move the template down to the transom for scaling. From there, I am able to make a template (red half-circle) to assist in the building of an accurate miniature for the model.

The three supporting images show the finished lantern...At least 46 pieces combined in wood, paper, acetate, and metal make up its design. Not only can one see through the simulated glass; but looking closely,  wings can be seen framing the windows from the sculpted uprights.

Fast forwarding, I now address the ship's boat -the longboat that was discovered next to VASA when she was raised in 1961. From Mr. Landstrom's writings it was defined as a sloop that carried leeboards port and starboard. On many models (small or large), I have not seen this item featured; so after many hours of study, I decided to add them to further authenticate the miniature.

The supporting images show the start and finish of the build:

The VASA longboat (sloop) shown as it appear at the museum.

Above, these three images show the build's progress, the rigging of the leeboards, and the final installation of the sloop. Overall, it took approximately three days to build...using pine, bass and birch woods.

Now that this segment has been achieved I will move on to the masts and rigging in the hopes that it will encourage many of you to take on the Airfix Classic Series kit of Wasa c. 1628.

I never snubbed my nose at the fact that the kit was plastic. I studied details and researched products to modify it into being a museum piece. Taking nothing away from it's properties, rather adding to it to prove how exquisite a regular kit such as this can become...with patience.

I appreciate the follow and hope to read your accounts relative to this.

Fair winds!

Sailing Ship VASA c.1628 -Modified /Rex Stewart

Here, we have the complete modified beakhead and stem of the Royal Warship VASA -based on Bjorn Landstrom's research and illustrations at the time the ship was raised from Stockholm's harbor in 1961. The book, itself, was published in 1988...being an invaluable asset to my build in spite of the criticism from various contemporaries.

In this second part series I focus on the beakhead and deck applications... Again,  museum quality model(s) can be achieved from the Airfix kit; but it takes an enormous amount of patience and concentration to bring the build to this level seen in the blog. Furthermore, it takes effective engineering and proper knowledge of Dutch rigging to make this a worthy endeavor.

There are no shortcuts...

The grated flooring of the Airfix kit was rather basic with limited detail. There were no openings for the gammoning or tack leads. So to compensate, I traced the kit version unto basswood -cutting out the outer frame and gluing small miniature slats across to serve as gratings. It was tedious and time-consuming; yet very gratifying after two attempts.

The grated flooring finished and installed...

After the beak's flooring was painted, I went to work on the forecastle bulkhead -modifying the entranceways and replacing the plastic doors with wooden ones (as seen below). But before that was accomplished I scaled down the Swedish Coat of Arms that was featured on main deck rail system (as seen above). This small detail would be the highlight of the bow.

In this image the viewer is shown modified doors, hull stem for sprit mast, and companionway steps.

All information provided by historians is based on the limitation of information. Meaning, we work at what level of truth is evident for the period researched. There are no absolutes, only findings that are probable and concise...And yes, mistakes can be made with research; and a real historian will puth the facts put there and not allow politics to corrupt and/or pollute it. I follow blueprints (and even produce my own) which stem from the blueprints established by others.

Bjorn Landstrom book is a landmark study of the VASA; yet, in some areas he flawed. However, in most areas he shined and that's where many miss the mark.

The next three images will show the completed beakhead and the frontal piece of the forecastle...with some additional details such as the small ladders leading down to the grated flooring from the port and starboard doors.

Closeup detail of VASA figurehead in goldleaf...

Port beakhead overview...

Bow starboard frontal view...

The next step of the build/modification are the decks. These must be carefully planned in both layout and fitting. Also the right scale for the grating, knight, bitt and bulkhead locations are very important for the overall appearance. Furthermore, the rigging has to be considered relative to spacing on the deck and pinrails. There must also be room for cannon to be run in and out by the tackles, so the grating must be scaled to compensate this.

The below image show the new reconstructed deck in comparison to the kit's feature.

Proceeding further into the build, I arrived at this stage of the deck layout

Subtle starboard view of deck looking forward...Notice the 'sweep' as was typical of the Baltic State ships of the period.

As I build my eyes are continuously searching the model from stem to stern. I try not to remain in one area too long, as this will cause neglect and missed detail to other locations. Sometimes my best corrections are when I apply this process.

Working with guns command ongoing attention because it is the main feature to any fighting ship. I could never understand a model with all cannon run out on either or both sides. It doesn't seem realistic -or authentic. In this build I place the gunports in various stages, re: closed, partially closed, partially open, completely open...Along with the flags and sails, this is another one of my signatures that distinguish me from my contemporaries. Below, a waterline image that show the varied gun stages on VASA.

Below, a profile view of the opened gunport variations...Notice on the ports and hull how realistic these features appear (under diffused lighting).

Sixteenth and seventeenth century ships has to be some of the most beautiful  vessels to model...and I've done both. However, my line of work is extensive which cover ships and vessels of all periods. But these two centuries are special because it allow me to go all out with my carving and sculpting skills...Furthermore, I can appreciate the intricate workmanship of those artists and shipwrights who illustrated, designed and carried forth the artistic mastery of that time upon their vessels.

That being said, I now present the last two images of VASA's stern galleries to close out 'part two' of the series.

There is more to address within the ship's interior before stepping the masts. I can only hope the seasoned builders will make good on their 'stash' as they call it and not let those kits sit idle. And of the collector(s), I encourage you to acquire these as they are valuable when modified. The detail is 'there'; it's a matter of choice to how much correction in the detail is preferred...because beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

These last two views show the completed stern galleries of VASA...It is believed that her topsides were red, but there were no evidence of that based upon Bjorn's writings on the subject. What little evidence he wrote about claimed that there were traces of blue pigmentation and gilding. Of colors, some pigmentation were found inboard around the bulkhead doors and interior walls of the cabins. Climatic conditions, sealife and water corrosion took its toll on the vessel...so much of the color had to be derived from master painters of the period. And even in that, not one painting in any museum show red topsides.

With that in mind, I now close this segment of the build and raise my glass (honorably) to Bjorn Landstrom's legacy. This will be a fine study and a most memorable model when finished.

To view my credentials and other fine work(s) please visit https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals.

For information concerning commissioned work call 1-774-757-7137 or write for details at: Caseships@yahoo.com.

Thank you for viewing!