British Warship HMS Prince -Art Of Modification/Part Five

 

In my last blog I spoke about not being too consumed in a build. It's always good to walk away when the mind touches upon frustration. Others will argue that it's 'healthy'...but there are consequences when attempting to force a thing.

I know only a few will heed my advice, and this will only rob those who are proud to not really digest what I'm writing. I didn't get here to this level shucking peanuts; I got here because I was 'willing' to read the literature of my forerunners to get the schematics of the process. I threw away the vanity and the politics to embraced the method and techniques. That's how hungry I was to be one of the best in what I do.

The above image show the detailed bow and anchor arrangement of the Classic Series -Airfix HMS Prince. The colors are subtle and not overworked -lending more attention to details while the goldleaf absorbs the viewer. Goldleaf doesn't overpower the model, but rather introduce a natural balance that the eye can absorb.

Below is my wood sculpted diorama titled "The Admiralty" which shows Phineas Pett among other subjects viewing and discussing a build for one their ships. It was one of his designs that brought the  H.M.S. Prince to sea.

Now that we're past the concepts of the hull, it's time to move on to the masts and rigging. Such is a complicated subject to discuss and I won't waste any time 'there'. My sound advice relative to it is simple: research, read, and research again. That's the jewel of ALL jewels -the ability to read and cipher between fact and fiction. The quality of my builds stem from the desire to compete with self. There is no good in competing with another; you take on their burden while attempting to finish yours. Also, don't make comparisons...just be honest about your assessments for which to make a point.

I made mention in one of my earlier blogs, that belay points were carefully studied before permanently securing the apparatus that was used for rigging this type ship. Furthermore, the locations had to be featured both on the masts/yards (and decks) where the falls would not foul the lines. In the process I noticed that the garnet tackle was wrongfully rigged on the top rail of the main deck. The scale would not place it there, but rather on the deck with a bitt piece (and ring bolt) which would secure the lower hooked block of the garnet. I found that the lashed spars would conflict with this tackle, so I made alternate bitts (port and starboard) and placed this apparatus portside.

In future photos I will show this detail...

 Another oversight was location of the fore course tack lines. I must concede that I flawed in my earlier builds of this vessel. Some experts stated that my lead and fall was accurate, but after seriously pouring over the plans, I realized I was just executing another fine-looking model. In this image I made bitts forward of the mainstay deadeyes for which to take on and secure the course tacks. This would in no way foul the other principle lines leading to their correct pins.

Below a model of the ST. GEORGE, 1701.... show those course tacks belayed in the same area. So, in essence, this is correct. As long as the lines are not overlapped on the same belay pin, the builder is fine. However, I did find that the topgallant and topsail bowlines overlapped; but those were of the same system and separate from the other functional lines. 

With that information secure, I'm now ready to rig...

As aforementioned, advance rigging takes much observation and preparation. The key to it all is to get the tackles on the mast (first); followed by the stays. Then, the rigging blocks must be attached as you work those two systems. Finally, the topropes and their tackles...Below are four images showing this process. Also, don't be particular about the outcome of the rigging process. Mistakes will occur; and don't take anyone's opinion as law. Things look good on paper (plans), but the true value of a thing arrives at the conclusion. Just because it's on paper, doesn't make it fact.

Build the model and you will discover your facts as you build. Sound and perfect advice to those who are willing to apply it.

The first application of rigging to PRINCE are the relieving tackles that are seen beneath the tops; followed by the stays. If the stays are applied first, then there's no need to focus on these tackles because it will conflict with the shrouds. Next is the garnet tackle(s) which is carried on the mainmast over the relieving tackles...After these are applied, move on to the stays and the webbed rigging above them known as the crowsfeet. That feature was to prevent the foot of the topsails from chaffing against the stays.

The final process before the shrouds are rigged is the sprit topmast backstay seen at the upper righthand; and the manropes (port and starboard) that lead from the forward bulkhead above the doors to the back stem of the topmast cap in the top...And last, the topmast topropes...and their tackles (that are rarely seen in good models).

The last two images show a partial finish of what I just mentioned -which will conclude in this blog before moving on to Part Six.

There is another important detail that need to be made mention of in the tackle system that can't be avoided. These are the truss tackles -a system of combined blocks and multiple rigging that was used to raise and lower the fore and main yards that were attached to parrels. These parrels expanded (with the help of the truss tackles) as they traveled over the wooldings as they were raised and lowered to the deck.

I've witnessed many builders producing detailed models, but shy away from the important details that would make the model authentic. A properly rigged model is worth its weight in gold.

In this photo I am reviewing details that I either missed, or need to revise. Such notes can be very time-consuming but worth the effort when it's effectively presented. It's not about being scholarly; it's about revealing buried information that go unnoticed...All the more reason these models are sought after by serious collectors.

As I continue to rig, I discover that more belay points/pins are needed. Early kit producers only gave generic/basic rigging leads; but omitted those that were essential to model building -especially on the PRINCE (and other 17th century ships). These lines were the various tackles, topropes, halyards, and proper bunts and leeches. Many models barely feature them -and these were the main systems for keeping the ship operational.

Below, I begin to address the rigging process by placing the miniature blocks on the masts and tops prior to rigging -and then secure the tackles before placing the shrouds.

Here, the tackles are applied, but more must be added. In  most contemporary models tackle falls aren't visible and must be found. The falls must be true to rigging standards relative to where those leads tie off. I've come to find that some of these lines were not on belay pins (as such) but on eyebolts with blocks that were in tackle form which were belayed on the lower rigging of those blocks -as shown behind the mainmast next to the companionway.

The image below show the early stage of shroud rigging...

Another application that I apply before continuing with the shrouds is rigging the jib. I usually draw out a rough sail schematic in lue of making a decision on how best the model will look to the viewer. I attempt to keep it authentic by mimicking sail formations on contemporary photos. However, I don't copy them to the letter, as such; but apply the basic generics (with my thought process) to give a more dramatical flow of canvas as if the ship was before the wind....But the process begin with the lead sails. The flow starts there.

 Here, I begin with the jib. I tried to make it as realistic as possible which included the folds and reefing.

Another common detail that seem to evade 17th century shipmodels are the crisscrossed lines on the lower and upper shrouds shown in this image. These were essential for strengthening the shrouds and were called catharpins. It seems difficult to rig these, but if the steps are applied faithfully (with concentration), it's fairly 'easy'.

 

I now leave the viewer with this image of the progress. However, I must be clear relative to these type models. Understand that there are no absolutes with the rigging process of these ships except that the applications were basic and true to the writings of the forerunners. It's those writings that I followed to conclude my spin on the process.

Over the years curators have falsely claimed that the rigging on the Prince was done during the time of the build; but the fact of the matter was when the actual model was purchased by the Kensington Science Museum in 1895 it was unrigged. The rigging was done in 1898 but wasn't found satisfactory and was subsequently redone correctly some years later. Yet, the question remained regarding belay systems that seem to have evaded those scholars of that time.

That being said, one can only speculate (with experience) where those systems began and ended on the conclusion of the lines themselves. So it's only fair to not assume but work those belay points where those lines would seem efficient for the crew member to work. I've done this to the best of my ability with all these models to the satisfaction of my collectors and scholars in the field.

Of course I've faced unprecedented scrutiny in the process, but that usually comes with the territory of painstaking research. This is what make my work what it is and I continue to push it forward with purity, not politics.

Airfix was true in designing this kit with what limited information it had -and I must concede that those engineers and draftsmen/women did a fine job of it. But with further global information, this model brings to bear even deeper revelations which, in part, make my work rare.

I appreciate the follow and hope you will be ready for 'Part Six' of this series.

Thanks for viewing!

  

 

 

Sovereign Of The Seas - The Art Of Modification...Part Three/ Rex Stewart

A closeup view-  Sovereign of the Seas forecastle deck, foremast and rigging lines...

Working with this vintage model from the Airfix series is the perfect kit for assessing SOVEREIGN's true structure relative to gun arrangement and layout. Many features throughout this build had to be altered to the degree of scale, guns, gratings and belay points...For a fighting ship there had to be enough space to move around the guns and rigging. Also, the rigging had to be clear of the guns in order for them to operate properly on their carriages.

I noticed the bow chasers on the upper forecastle were positioned four across. Based on the structure of the catheads (and the stepping of the foremast) there would have been no room for these guns to recoil. The mast, alone, makes it evident that only two chasers were there, not four. The falcons (port and starboard) are correct.

On many models I noticed there are no galley stacks. Why?

Meals were prepared forward of the ship, therefore the stove was located somewhere on the second or third deck above the waterline away from the crew.

I did not see any kit or institutional model feature any open companionways for the crew to  have immediate accessibility to guns and/or rigging prior to battle or weather conditions. Because of these factors I just didn't want to build 'another' SOVEREIGN; but have one that was a study model showing authentic deck layout and rigging of the period...Not by assumption or speculation, but by fact.

Before proceeding with rigging of the foremast, I had to concentrate on the anchors and how they were secured to the channels. Airfx anchors were perfectly scaled and correctly matched the channel length for stowing. However, the channel width was too narrow to house the anchor's bill so I had to widen that feature. This also helped to avoid having the ratlines touch the rails on the forecastle.

I kept the bill but modified the stem and stock as shown in the above image.

For my references to the anchor area I used both artist renditions from Van De Velde (the elder) who lived during that period and the contemporary illustration of artist Bjorn Landstrom. I considered these two sources very credible -based on my 40 years of maritime research.

Here, the anchor is stowed which give room for the second to be stowed and lashed properly as illustrated in the above Van De Velde drawing. Notice in the rendition a system of complete gratings covering the gun decks...In reality the system NEVER existed because it would not have given the crew leeway to operate the rigging for the sails. Furthermore, you have capstans which were essential for hoisting the large sails and yards; not to mention loading supplies and dispatching the boats.

It's difficult to fathom many builders ignoring those facts and succumb to so-called historians with their theories based on artist renditions and/or paintings. To make my point, view the contemporary illustration below and ask 'how' the crew was able to get past the gratings to be on deck to trim the sails? The stowed boats dictate grating could not have been present except on the spar deck where the spars are shown! Why won't modelmakers and historians 'do' the homework?

It took me 38 years to bring this truth to bear!

Contemporary drawing created during the 1980s that raised my suspicions at that time relative to the rigging factor and how it clashed with the reality of operational rigging systems. Also the contradiction of painting the topsides 'blue'...stealing the identity away from this ship when it was probably used as the color under the rule of King James when the PRINCE ROYAL was built in 1610. Under the son, Charles I, his ships carried black topsides.

Now, back to the rigging...

Before actual rigging is done, I first address how I want the sails to set -based on the wind setting. I find many models interesting because the builder presents to the viewer his or her view of how the vessel is operating -whether in calm waters or rough seas. Most don't understand that this small detail is the essence to good model presentation -on all levels. However, imagination is the key.

In this image I sketch out the sail from the same paper stock that these will be made from, keeping in mind that I'm focusing on wind movement (first), then on how the rigging will set based on that movement. The image implies that the sail is being let down by the bunts, keeping in mind that the port anchor is being lifted for stowing.

After the sail is drawn, it is cut out and folded to match both the indents and folds where the lines run which include the attached blocks. This add realism to the masts; but the rigging must be engineered in such a way where the lines can pass through the blocks without fouling or getting twisted with other lines. This process is tedious and must be planned ahead of time before securing the sail to the yards. And as shown, the yard is above the finished sail awaiting attachment.

The below image show the sail and yard concept as one unit, and the detail of those lines pre-arranged for the next step of rigging. It all looks complicated, and technically it is; but with practice everything will start to flow and balance...giving an effective result.
                                                                                                                                                                 

The next two images show how beautiful and effective the rigging process is when the completed sail has been attached to the mast. All other remaining lines are then attached to systems at the fore and aft points on the model...Concentration is 'key' so not to disrupt or foul existing lines -and the eyes must always focus in every and all directions during the build so not to ruin work that's taken weeks or months to accomplish.

Two views showing the main course attached and rigged to the mast with lines falling to their respective belay points.

In my study of rigging , I noticed 17th century ships had basic lines for their large ships that were universal. These were lines that contemporary models omitted or used randomly. Some lines were not present because of confusion to their leads and falls. These were bunts, martnetts, relieving tackles, bowlines, and top ropes. Other details were various stay designs between the main and mizzen masts -and tackle systems that assisted in relieving the strain of a line when masts and yards were hoisted or lowered.

In my calculation there must have been 50 - 60 tackle systems operating this ship (and other European ships of those times, re: France, Holland, Sweden, Spain, etc.)...

Coming upon the last leg of the build, I studied the Van De Velde painting in the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich, England. I noticed the complicated mizzen stay systems of the top and topgallant masts. I had to decide how to approach it on such a small model at 1:168 scale. Below is the procedure and the following photo, the result.

The procedure...

The result...

On a miniature of this size, it is important to have the stays in place before completing the final segment of sail making and rigging. The most challenging part of this process is rigging the braces and bringing them down to their belay points without destroying the ensign flag. This is very tedious, even for the expert...and it's based upon the seriousness of the build.

In this particular image, I address the running rigging of the lateen sail. Since the model will show the sails taking in the breeze, I gently billowed this sail to show this effect without over-exaggerating the realism. In the background is the vintage thread used for the boltropes seen around the sail and the cake of beeswax used to preserve the threads from rotting.

The finished lateen is now ready to be installed...

The final diagram review of modification and corrections before completing Sovereign of the Seas.

Nothing can be more rewarding than to lose oneself in the annals of history and rediscover roads that others have trail blazed. It is not a put down of any individual's work, but rather an opportunity to study and enhance what's already been without ruining a finding based on pride. I have always honored those who opened doors to truths that many have ignored. Always wanting to know 'more' about a thing and not settle for mediocrity.

I am thankful for all those who have built their SOVEREIGNs before I was to actually build mine. All were helpful with my assessments and evaluations to a ship that held unanswered data that brought me into the fold. And because of these individuals, I better understanding for the traditional shipbuilding methods of the period.

No man's findings are absolute, but in those findings there will always be purpose; and that is absolute.

I now depart from this blog to prepare the finale. Thank you for taking the consideration to read and view the images!

For commissioned work, whether scratchbuilt or kit modification, please send your requests to Caseships@yahoo.com. My profile page can be viewed at https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart. Videos representing my recent works can be viewed at https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals


A special note:

Some of you have kits that you want to enjoy...not having the time (or being delayed) to complete -or build them. In my line of experience, I can modify your kits to be historically accurate in fine detail -and can safely package and ship your gem globally.

The contact information is above.