VASA -The Swedish Warship In Modification/ Rex Stewart...Part One

                       Airfix Classic shipmodel kit of VASA showing finished bow modification.

It is a beautiful thing when people can appreciate your work to the extent of purchase -and then call or write about their satisfaction years later...followed by the continued support of their siblings. Such patronage is priceless which only encourage better and greater work.

For me, it was never about money; it was about art and engineering -with the skill to produce fine art in everything I touched...Money was (and is) the reward for honesty in what I did, and for what I continue to do. Nothing more; nothing less.

In this genre of ship models, I am a humble man. I painstakingly study a vessel. And for the most part draft or re-draft plans based on my findings. From these discoveries, I incorporate them in my models -whether scratchbuilt or kits. The majority of my pieces are scratchbuilt. However, I occasionally (by commission) modify kits to give the the same quality as my scratchbuilt pieces -and upon sight, one cannot tell the difference; which doesn't condemn what I do, but place it at another level..

Collectors enjoy my work and purchase (at times) in multiples...only because they need to view them to compare the quality; hence, a collection is born. And it doesn't make a difference whether it's wood or plastic. It's all about the skill and ability behind the work(s) that bring the human eye to it.

We now begin 'our' beautiful journey to the thing people can see and appreciate...

I began purchasing Airfix kits in the early 1980s. There was something about this product that drew me to them (the ships). Of course they were plastic -as I had not yet became prolific with wood models. However, that gradually manifested when discovering the history of the Hudson River steamboat. In this image VASA was one of the first kits I bought to indulge my curiosity of its contents -after reading Bjorn Landstrom's book "The Royal Warship VASA".

Both book and kit was purchased from the sale of my colored pencil drawing of the WINSTON CHURCHILL shown in the photo image below.

My early pencil of the training ship WINSTON CHURCHILL...the drawing which purchased my first Airfix kit, VASA.

Every beginner or journeyman that starts a kit often becomes intimidated by its contents and usually shelf it without giving thought that the motivation to build is real. The pitfall is the many pieces viewed upon; the 'win' is the confidence in studying the pieces and establish a plan as to what will be addressed 'first'. No one builds the same. Everyone has a standard they follow; and if that standard produces an untarnishable satisfaction to move on to the next project (after completing the first), then that beginner and/or journeyman has now established the hobby and/or career.

When I look at the hull-halves and stern, I already know what need to be addressed. Kits have flaws -period, and one shouldn't be discouraged by them. Building should be the focus with the expectancy of error. I realized the VASA' hull needed work and appreciated the fact I could add my own signature to it. This is what makes a project exciting, the fact that it's your signature and not a copied style.

Artist - historian Bjorn Landstrom became my motivation for individuality as an artist-craftsman; and ultimately, a historian. I was drawn to his books during my youth because his references were paramount from that which I studied in the Albany school system. It was his first book "The Ship" that captured my imagination of the maritime. And as the years passed, I inquired and acquired his publications to learn more indepth how these vessels were constructed.

His last book "The Royal Warship VASA" was the book that changed my perspective on ship design and modelmaking. I studied the details (and rigging) which helped me to correct his applications   -based on another author from England named Percival Marshall...He, too, was advanced; but Bjorn was key to my detailed work which centered around his findings from the actual ship.

With my experience as a fine artist/craftsman, I knew my calling in the American maritime was eminent, though it would be met with opposition. However, I dealt with it successfully and continued on because of Bjorn's writings.

As I assessed the VASA kit, these two supporting images show the early stages of the build.

I begin by marking the hull below the waterline -down to the keel at the points where pins will be inserted. These pins are temporary until the cradle is made to support the actual pins that will permanently secure the model to both cradle and display base.

The second image show the hulls clamped to align it (and its markings) to the custom foamcore.       
This foamcore base will be the workbench for finishing the model from the deck -upwards; making it easier to address the sails and rigging without physically touching those properties.

Notice the exposed ribs on the roundhouse deck above the stern galleries. This wasn't on the actual ship when raised, so that feature will be carved away during modification.

Here in this starboard profile, the hull is modified from bow to stern. Many features were altered and/or changed to conform to the actual build. Other features were added that was commonplace for 17th century ships.

Before and after photos showing the enhanced galleries and gunports. The gunport lids on the model were raised and weren't flush with the hull, so I cut away the ports and followed through with the plastic lids because of the lion carvings. The wood lids replaced the plastic ones -so to lend more realism to the model.

Quality and detail have always been paramount to my builds. The interior is no exception.

Here, I place wood decking only in areas that will support the cannon(s). Instead of gluing the plastic guns into the prefabricated sockets from the kit,the ports are drilled (and cut away) to house the cannons...This affords the opportunity to have guns at various positions to make for a lifelike model.

These are the exquisite details collectors watch for.

So that wood bonds to wood, I show the custom made cannons which would better serve the build as a permanent fixture. Plastic has the tendency to dry out over time as I have witnessed when restoring plastic kits for clients. The cement was brittle (due to various climatic changes)...and for the most part I discovered those models were placed in direct sunlight or high heated areas.

It's best to get good quality resin glue for wood and replace plastic items (when possible). Many models have stood the test of time because of this procedure. Resin can last for years without decaying or drying out.

Every artist has his/her style when painting a fine piece. There are really no standards to follow except for personal intuition. While some techniques work for some, it doesn't work for others. I learned this early-on during my youth. Art teachers, and then art professors, would attempt to persuade my values to the point of 'crossing swords'...I vehemently encourage any who have a unique way of achieving the same end with better results, to stay the course even if compromise will fail you.

That being said (or written), I find that kits should be examined carefully before purchasing any paints to address it. Brushes should also be a factor in the application. Every artist/craftsman has a certain preference for bringing out the best quality in their work. If this wasn't true we would not have variety!

Here, I paint the fine detail of the galleries while the hull is still in progress... I paint as I assemble; not pre-paint. The reason for this is because correction has to be made -and parts can occasionally be warped. These problems will always exist, and it's better to mentally prepare for these snags and not assume perfection at first glance.

The finished backend and starboard side stern galleries...

With the backend and starboard galleries finished, I now work on the portside of the hull. My focus is on the gunports and the arrangement of those which were open on that day. Since it was wind that sank her, and reports were given of water being taken in on the lower gun deck, I tend to lean on the fact that buoyancy was the issue, not wind....From documents (which much disappeared), it was duly noted that VASA did have her full armament that day. And since it was a trial sailing, it is safe to place emphasis on the guns being secured at the ship's center for buoyancy; but not enough buoyance to keep her afloat since there wasn't enough on her keelson... But that can be disputed when viewing the English ships.

Now that both halves have been painted, I proceed with converting the plastic deck to wood - rearranging the entire layout to conform with the settings. Even the ship's sloop will be re-designed to emulate the actual sloop at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm.

Basswood and/or cherry are the choice woods for these models, as they lend to the elegance of their appearance.

The next stage of the build will focus on the beakhead and hull in Part Two.

Kits should not be played down as being something of a hobby or pastime. These can be professionally modified to become museum pieces and collectibles, or both. It's really the level of quality that determines the build. As a professional I have endlessly proven this for years. So now there is no excuse to belittle kits (as I have witnessed in several forums). Flaws are everywhere and can appear when least expected; but, with a openmind and keen eyes, flaws can become 'flawless'...with patience.

For those who enjoy this type work and have kits to be modified -or wish to have one built from scratch, kindly contact me: Caseships@yahoo.com. For more information about me and what I do, please visit https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart/ and https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals

I now leave you, the viewer, with those thoughts and look forward to the next blog on this subject of VASA c.1628.

Miniature Build of Mayflower II - Rex Stewart

                                                                                                                                                                      Port bow detail -closeup view of Mayflower II miniature.                                     

I often wondered what it would be like working around the clock researching notable ships of the past. If the effort would have brought reward or become futile and useless. It was, for the most part, a judgement call that required all my abilities and focus.

Such work had a special class of application that was totally separate from conventional methods. It just wasn't enough to have skill with miniatures, but a sense of purpose relative to the workmanship applied to them. It is an art form like no other...and every detail placed in one of these can truly be appreciated in its presentation. There are no shortcuts, just long hours of dedication.

There have been countless models made of the MAYFLOWER...in every form and fashion. I was always fascinated with this vessel because it was symbolic of the American spirit with its origins beginning in England c.1620. Many kits were surfacing in the 1960s on this ship and 15 years later American maritime featured scratch-built types on the floors of its galleries. From this, I explored and researched the possibilities of honing in on mastering a miniature to the exact detail of the one built in England in 1957. It took forty years, but I was finally able to accomplish it.

                               This photo show the beginning process of the build.

I purchased a book on Mayflower II during the early '80s. This was the decade when much of my maritime art was making its debut in and around New England and my native New York. As I built my ship models I discovered a great quality in one particular wood. This wood was pine. My contemporaries were using pear, boxwood, mahogany, etc., all fine woods. But I chose this wood because it was not just durable, but carried qualities which assisted my hand skills.

In the photo I utilize the pine effectively, cutting the hull to align with the grain. This process make it easier to simulate planking and trunnels on a solid hull model. Careful application of pencil drawing is necessary for it to work and be believable to the naked eye.

As planking is applied to the outer hull, it usually start at the waterline in the early stage so that I can achieve definition for the topsides. My second, and most important concentration, lie with the interior deck furniture. This may take from two weeks to several weeks -depending on the detail involved. When building the H.M.S. PRINCE c.1670 the interior took a month to endeavor. Here, the MAYFLOWER is less complicated, so her interior was a two-week process which included the ship's boat.

                         


Fast forwarding...

The MAYFLOWER miniature hull and masts are complete and the rigging process now begin. With all these models I keep the hull from being scratched by setting them on a tissue-covered cradle which I custom make out of styrofoam...Portable containers are also made from this material which makes it easier to transport and store the model away to prevent damage to intricate parts. I also use this material to ship the models with a 100% percent success rate.

                                   
                                    

Here, I am working on the foresail rigging after all the spritsail details are applied. Because running lines are tedious, ratlines (standing lines) are applied in balance so not to fowl the process. By this method I am able to bring to my models true realism with actual threads -as opposed to glued wires.

When taking on this genre, I studied the work of my contemporaries and appreciated the skill of their workmanship. However, in the process, I found that more could be done by going a 'step further' with using antique threads and running them through tiny wood blocks down to their belay points on deck. At shows and other venues, I was always questioned about this process. As a result, serious collectors have commissioned this work based on its accuracy.

                        

This starboard overview show the exquisite detail of the miniature. The beauty of the work is centered around the entire model. Much credit for this work is to God's glory for giving me the fortitude and ability to achieve a work that so many have produced; yet, build it in a unique way that captivates the imagination when taking a 'second look'...Second acknowledgement go to Mr. William A. Baker who put Hingham, Massachusetts on the map when he designed the ship and sailed with her from England to America. But all that could not have happened had it not been for those individuals in the forefront and behind the scenes that brought this ship into reality. My model is just a reminder of what people can do when they become a united front for mankind. I document my miniatures based on this premise -a united front.

This photo show the rigging symmetry of the 16th-17th century and its romanticism of the period. It is not enough to just build a model without, first, studying its history. Better work can be achieved when one can familarize with the subject to such a degree where a foundation for excellence can be realized. The rigging methods of this period has long been a fascination to me. Working with the builder of the contemporary HALF MOON in 1988, I was able to learn and add to my expertise, as both historian and ship model builder, that experience which assisted in my preparation to produce classic sailing ship miniatures such as the one featured on this page.

 

MAYFLOWER II in her original colors when first built in 1957...

In April of 1957 a sailing ship set out on a 54-day voyage across the Atlantic from Plymouth, England to Plymouth, Massachusetts. This small vessel was MAYFLOWER II, a reconstruction of the original MAYFLOWER that carried the Pilgrims to North America in 1620.

I have meticulously captured this famed vessel in miniature, based on the plans established by her designer, William A. Baker, who in his own right was a leading authority on early shipbuilding and naval architecture.

                                   

Video of the historic voyage of MAYFLOWER II circa 1957 from England to the United States.


                             

The finished model...

This miniature is one of a series of ship models I built in a ten year period, beginning with my model of HALF MOON in 2005. This model is the result of a 45 day process and is built in three woods of pine, birch, and bass. Much of the work is handcrafted in minute detail with accurate interiors and color. The model is full-rigged with linen thread and miniature wood blocks. The sails are especially unique because of its paper content which is carefully treated for longevity under climatic conditions.

The scale of this miniature is 1:200 with an overall length of 8 1/2" inches. All work is accompanied with a custom hand-scripted plaque and display case. For further information, contact the artist at Caseships@yahoo.com or rexstewartoriginals@gmail.com. Phone contact 1-774-757-7137. Websites that feature my works can be viewed by visiting https://youtube.com/c/RexStewartoriginals and https://www.linkedin.com/in/rexstewart.

Thanks for viewing!